Friday, March 22, 2013

10 Amazing Place - Tourist traps you don't want to miss


Yes, they are mentioned in every travel guide. Yes, they're teeming with tourists. But not all "tourist traps" are created equal. Here are 10 places our audience couldn't resist. And neither should you.

The Great Wall

The Great Wall
Built between the 5th century B.C. and the 16th century A.D. to block outsiders, the 5,000-mile Great Wall has ironically become the very thing most visitors come to China to see. From Beijing, skip the most popular section, Badaling, which can be an exercise in dodging crowds. Instead travel an extra 30 minutes to the well-preserved segment in the model village of Mutianyu, itself worth exploring. Make the 90-minute journey by taxi—independent cabbie John Ping charges $112 round trip. Book him a week in advance and factor in a customary 10 percent tip (beijingcardriver.com).

Why it's a must: It's an astonishing testament to human ambition, ingenuity, and xenophobia, not to mention the fact that its size is astounding—it drapes the mountains in sections for 1,500 miles, from the Yellow Sea to its curiously abrupt conclusion in the middle of the far-west Gobi Desert.

Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower
Believe it or not, the Eiffel Tower wasn't appreciated when it was built as the entrance to the International Exposition of 1889. A "barbarous mass overwhelming and humiliating all our monuments," and "a truly tragic street lamp" are just two of the protests published before it was built. Gustave Eiffel's contract called for the tower to be dismantled in 1909, but—luckily for the rest of the world—by then it was being used as an important communications tower and was allowed to stay. Today, it's the most visited monument on the planet. Skipping the elevator and taking the stairs to the first or second floor (1er or 2ème étage) can easily save you an hour or more in wait time and leave you with a few extra euros in your pocket.

Why it's a must: Yes, Paris' appeal goes well beyond classic images, but there's also something to be said for paying your respects to the most visited landmark on the planet—and the quintessential symbol of Paris.

Pisa

Pisa
The ornate bell tower's dramatic flaw made it an engineering calamity, then a curiosity, and ultimately, an icon. The tower started leaning shortly after construction began in 1173, and the tilt got worse as work on the building continued over two centuries, with several delays and attempts to correct the problem. Blame the marshy soil of coastal Tuscany. An 11-year, $27 million restoration that removed soil beneath one side and shifted the top of the tower closer to vertical by 16 inches, or half a degree, was completed in 2001 (but don't worry, it's still leaning to one side). Most people make Pisa a day trip from Florence; it's an hour-long $10 train ride away.

Why it's a must: Because there is nothing else like it in the world. Go in knowing that you're there for the obligatory picture of you pushing or leaning on the tower.

Acropolis in Athens

Acropolis in Athens
Towering above Athens you'll find the architectural pinnacle of one of history's most advanced civilizations. The 2,500-year-old complex includes the Parthenon temple and Erectheion, the tomb of the mythical Athenian king, Erectheus. Come early in the morning—not only will you beat the crowds and the heat, but you'll get to watch the sunrise rise against the ancient pillars. Just down the hill from the Acropolis sits architect Bernard Tschumi's modern three-decades-in-the-making addition to the ancient site. The exterior of the glass-walled space, which holds 40,000 artifacts, reflects the Parthenon. One of the coolest features is the glass floor built over an excavation area dating back to 500 B.C.

Why it's a must: Yes, you've seen countless images of the acropolis, but no photo can prepare you for the feeling you'll get when you're standing before this massive, ancient structure.

Chichen Itza

Chichen Itza
The mysteries surrounding the ancient Maya seem only to heighten their appeal. Yet, there is one fact about this Mesoamerican civilization that we can all agree on—the architecture they left behind is some of the most elaborate of all of the Mesoamerican civilizations. The massive Maya site of Chichen Itza is a prime example of their structural prowess. The site was recently named one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World. One of the most visited archeological sites in Mexico, visitors come from far and wide to see ruins such as the sacrificial altar, the stone temple of the warriors, the ball court with its incredible acoustics, and, of course, the pyramid itself. Chichen Itza can be reached by car or organized bus tours (typically about $35 per person) from nearby tourist hubs like Cancun or Cozumel.

Why it's a must: There's no better way to understand the scale and mystery of the ancient Maya.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Just outside the city of Siem Reap, in northern Cambodia, lies a vast complex of ancient temples so breathtaking they've become a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a national symbol. In the 1960s, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy ventured here despite the Vietnam War raging across the border just to see the site; more recently, portions of Angelina Jolie's first Tomb Raider movie was filmed in one of its tangled, tree-filled ruins. The main "city temple" is a 12th-century structure that began as an homage to the Hindu god Vishnu, then switched to a Buddhist sanctuary in the 16th century. An example of Cambodian Khmer architecture, the complex has three rectangular galleries, central towers, a moat, and elaborate bas-relief carvings illustrating scenes from Indian mythology.

Why it's a must: When a country considers a place so iconic that they emblazon an image of it on their national flag, that's a sign that it's worth seeing. Join the visitors who flock here during sunrise and sunset for the best photos of the towers.

Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the Australian Outback

Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the Australian Outback
Located in Australia's Red Centre, in the heart of the continent, this natural rock formation is one of the main attractions in the World Heritage Site Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Uluru is a flat-topped sandstone rock standing about 1,100 feet high and almost six miles around, with a soulful, deep-red hue that changes throughout the day.

(The site is also known as Ayers Rock, so named by the colonial surveyor who "rediscovered" the place in 1873.) The site is sacred to the Anangu people of the Pitjantjatjara Aboriginal tribe, who believe the rocks were built during the ancient creation period and are still inhabited by ancestor spirits. Visitors can drive or join a bus tour to the park from Alice Springs (280 miles away), or fly to Ayers Rock Airport/Connellan (AYQ); Qantas and Virgin Australia offer direct flights from several major domestic cities.

Why it's a must: It's the world's largest monolith and one of Australia's most famous natural landmarks. If that's not enough, Archeologist work suggests there were humans in this area over 20,000 years ago.

The Pyramids of Egypt

The Pyramids of Egypt
The pharaohs built things to last. That's why the name of Cheops has survived for 4,500 years. After all, nothing says "Cheops was here" like a 450-foot-high pile of stones weighing 6 million tons and covering 13 acres. This Great Pyramid is the oldest, and last surviving, member of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It bakes under the desert sun in the western suburbs of Cairo, surrounded by nine smaller siblings and the inscrutable gaze of the Sphinx. An old Arab proverb holds that "Man fears Time, but Time fears the Pyramids." Summer delivers 90-plus-degree temperatures and winter brings tourist throngs, but the shoulder seasons (March to May; September to November) promise fewer, and less-sweaty, crowds.

Why it's a must: It's a scene that mankind has been marveling at for the past 5,000 years.

Barcelona

Barcelona
Whether you're a first-time visitor or a regular, Barcelona has a way of seducing all who pass through. You have the daring design of Antoni Gaudí, whose gorgeously macabre Gothic cathedral, La Sagrada Familia, is the city's most famous tourist site. You have loud and lively tapas bars, which range from rustic spots with sawdusty floors to clean-lined spaces starring globally trained chefs—the very embodiment of the mashed-up nature of Barcelona's culture. And then you have the beaches, where you can sunbathe, people watch, and swim to your heart's content. It's all so intoxicating, you'll find yourself thinking one thing: What should I try next?

Why it's a must: Culture, cuisine, and coastline—what more do you want in a vacation?

Venice

Venice
Venice teeters on the edge of cliché with its lacework of canals, its domes and gilded spires, its kiosks with straw gondolier hats and refrigerator magnets in the shape of the Piazza San Marco. Postcard fodder, and yet ... Venice is beautiful. It has been so for centuries.

To be a tourist in Venice is to join a procession reaching back to the 14th century, when pilgrims stopped en route to the Holy Land. To capitalize on its geography as the departure point for voyages to the East, the canny Venetians created festivals to coincide with the influx, a hint of the commercialism to come. Irritating, that wallet-squeeze, but one you inevitably force yourself to stomach, particularly when catching sight of the Venice silhouette for the first time from the mainland shore of the lagoon. Yes, you have to take a boat or walk to get anywhere and then there are infinite detours, but that is all part of the charm. Embrace it, and make sure you see the city as it was intended to be experienced—on foot and by boat.

Why it's a must: It's one of the most unique cities in the world, not only for its breathtaking architecture, but for its frailty. Visit now, while you still have the opportunity.

Sources

Thursday, March 21, 2013

The Chao Phraya River


The Chao Phraya River

Siam has always been tied to the Chao Phraya River in some way. The kingdom of Sukhothai was founded on the banks of the Yom River, a tributary of the Chao Phraya, while downstream, another former capital – Ayutthaya – was settled…then sacked. Riverside communities bear the marks of this close bond: wooden stilt houses, floating markets and flood levies among them. Without this twisty, meandering behemoth – also known as the River of Kings – Thailand would simply not be Thailand.

The economic zones of Bangkok are well protected from flooding from the Chao Phraya, which means that trade and leisure on the river continues unabated all year round – commuter ferries, longtail boats, hotel transfers, sand barges and river cruises are the primary sources of all this waterborne activity.

If you find yourself with spare time in Bangkok, whether you're a traveler or a resident, the following pursuits will give you a good idea of both the city's history and its current identity.

Things to do around the Chao Phraya:

Shop: True, you can do this anywhere in Bangkok, but the riverside offers up the prettiest shopping opportunities, with some fresh air thrown in for good measure. River City, at Sri Phaya Pier – two stops from the terminus at Saphan Taksin – has waterfront restaurants and upmarket tourist-centric stores selling pricey silk, gems, souvenirs, antiques and artwork.

Across from River City right next to the Millennium Hilton, is Talat Khlong San, a typical local marketplace that sells mainly clothes – all very inexpensive – with all the usual market fare on offer as well. You can hop on the Hilton's ferry to get there, or pay 3 THB to cross from River City on the commuter ferry. The pier is called Khlong San.

Asiatique is the newest riverside shopping development, with hundreds of covered market stalls (a smaller, classier version of Chatuchak market), chain restaurants, upmarket dining and plenty of space to sit and people-watch. It's a 15-minute free shuttle boat ride from Saphan Taksin BTS and pier, and worth the trip. Avoid trying to drive here – the traffic and parking situation is a nightmare.

The tourist boat – the express boat with the blue flag – is usually the best way to navigate the river. It's 40 baht per trip – more expensive than the local commuter boat, but faster and with fewer stops. Stand near the back of the boat when you want to disembark – the boat stops for approximately 10 seconds at each pier, guided by a whistle-toting attendant – and the driver has no sympathy for slow-pokes. The attendant speaks some English if you need assistance.

Koh Kret: This is an urban outpost for an ethnic Mon community, who make a living on the steady stream of local and foreign tourists that visit for an afternoon to eat and shop for handicrafts and pottery, which the island is known for. You can join an organized tour to get there, or take the peak-hour green flag express boat to Pak Kret, or during the day, the green flag boat to Nonthaburi, then take a taxi. The island is a square that you can cycle or walk around (there are no cars) – a relaxing day out if you like temples, pagodas, museums and checking out the everyday life of a small village in Bangkok.

Phra Pradaeng: If the idea of cycling around a green area appeals to you, the Phra Pradaeng area of Bangkok is worth a look. It's a segment of jungle bordered by a loop in the Chao Phraya, with canals, a floating market, villages, wildlife and bicycle rental – elevated cement walkways over the marshy ground allow you to cycle, walk, or even Segway. You might want to venture into the urbanized area of Phra Pradaeng, or you might be content to explore the park right near Tha Bangkrachao pier. You can get to this pier by ferry or longtail boat from Khlong Toey pier.

Thonburi khlong tour: The "other side" of Bangkok is still has legitimate river-based communities who live in much the same manner as they have been for centuries. Tour operators are clueing up to the attractiveness of this area by offering organized longtail boat trips there, but you can achieve the same by hiring a private longtail boat by the hour. You can probably negotiate 300-500 baht per hour, and you need someone with Thai language skills on board. The pay-off is a relaxing – and sometimes thrilling – cruise through canals, sneaking peeks into the stilt houses of locals and being loudly greeted and splashed at by local kids using the khlongs as their backyard pool.

Dine: The river is best visited in the late afternoon so you can enjoy the change of scenery as sunset fades into nighttime. During high season (November-January-ish), there's a fresh breeze, so it's much less humid than the city center. There are countless places you can dine along the riverfront. On the more expensive side are the five-star hotels near Saphan Taksin: the Mandarin Oriental, the Shangri-La, the Peninsula and the Millennium Hilton among them.

Mid-range restaurants – whether Thai or international – can be found at River City, Asiatique and Viva Aviv, or you can head upriver to the Anantara or to a romantic waterfront restaurant such as The Deck. Then there are a handful of affordable and chic/rustic watering holes such as Samsara Café and Meal – a quirky converted stilt-house with bar that serves Thai food and art and has several resident cats.

On the very local end of the spectrum, you can always dine in an authentic Thai manner – street-vendor style. Any pier will have a few street carts to provide take away meals so you can find a patch of riverside to temporarily claim as your own. One popular Isaan food restaurant is located at Pepsi Pier, a 3 THB ferry crossing from Saphan Taksin. During football season, a big outdoor screen goes up, but generally it's just you, the river and a small crowd of locals winding down after a long day. A meal here will cost you less than USD 5 and they have menus in English with pictures.

Cruises: A dinner cruise is usually an over-rated affair, but if you have limited time to enjoy the city, it ticks a lot of boxes at once. You've got views, Thai food, a sightseeing tour and the river all bundled into one, with minimal effort on your behalf. If you want to take a day cruise, you can go up river to Ayutthaya or downriver to the Royal Barges National Museum, or just to Khao San Road and the boutique shophouses of Phra Athit. A little web research before committing to any cruise is recommended, as there are lots of different options – some more expensive than others. Have fun!

Sources

A Pretty Big Deal - Getting Married in India


Getting Married in India

If you’re ever lucky enough to be invited to a wedding in India, the first thing you have to know before going is that it’s a big deal. A very big deal indeed.

Lest you expect an Indian wedding to be simply two youngsters falling in love and exchanging vows with a few family and friends present and then slipping away for a bit of private time…well, that’s not how it works.

In fact, it’s quite the opposite – an Indian wedding is the very public bringing together of two youngsters AND their families. Indeed, you do not marry an individual in India, but rather a family, a clan, an entire interconnected, intertwined inter-dependent network. And as such, everyone is involved in the wedding at every stage, and celebrates with a vengeance over a period of several days.

In a country like India, which is a gargantuan melting pot of languages, cultures, religions, castes, customs and clans, there are, of course, many different types of weddings. For instance, a Christian wedding will follow a much more recognizably western format – church, long white dress, bridesmaids, followed by a reception.

But the minute you talk about a Hindu wedding, all bets are off. The ceremonies and festivities surrounding a wedding can last for a week, easily, and if you are invited, you need stamina, colorful clothes and the ability to eat and party non-stop.

And that right there is the essence of an Indian wedding – throwing a party that’s as raucous and happy and colorful and noisy and inclusive as possible; there is no room for quiet restraint or candle-lit romance.

Of course, there are moments of solemnity when the vows are exchanged, but even at the most intimate moment of a Hindu wedding, when the couple walks seven times around the sacred fire making very public vows, there is chatter and laughter, and coming and going, and the throwing of rose petals, and people taking photos, and - yet again - it is impossible to avoid using the word ‘fun’.

Last year, at the Delhi wedding of two youngsters who have both lived their lives overseas, the pundit was talking in Hindi, explaining the vows and the significance of them. He suddenly stopped, and switching into English asked the groom: “Have you any idea what I am talking about? Have you understood one single word of this?” Quick as a flash, the groom replied, “No, sorry, not a word” and the whole, huge crowd of guests burst out laughing. And the pundit switched to English.

That was a true Indian wedding scene – laughter at even the most solemn of moments.

To set the scene properly, it helps to understand the key elements of a Hindu wedding.

A few days before the event there will be a sangeet, or musical evening, the gravity of which depends on the degree of formality of the musical soirée. I have been to sangeets where renowned classical musicians entertain the guests, as well as sangeets that bordered on a disco. Traditionally there are humorous, jokey songs, often poking innocent fun at the groom-to-be. Increasingly, these songs have become more of a family and friends production, with all the sisters and female cousins and friends singing and dancing, and then the brothers and male cousins and friends responding. Usually set to Bollywood music and often telling the tale of how the couple met, these song and dance sequences are hugely popular with everyone laughing and cheering as aunties and uncles get into the act. Indians are seemingly born to dance, and what better occasion than a pre-wedding dance party?

Closer to the wedding day will be the mehendi ceremony, when the bride-to-be and her female family and friends have henna decorations applied. It’s of the most relaxed wedding rituals, usually taking place over lunch as the women sit chatting, hand and arms outstretched, whilst a small army of mehendi-walis (professional mehendi artists) paint intricate designs on their skin. There is always a bangle-wali at these events as well, and the women have huge fun selecting dozens of colored bangles to match their outfits.

On the big day, everyone is busy setting up, getting dressed and preparing for the upcoming rituals. If you are from the groom’s side, you will form part of the baraat, a ceremony which replicates the traditional act of the groom travelling to the bride’s house, where they would marry and return to his house to live. Nowadays, a baraat is a boisterous, noisy parade through the streets leading to the venue. Some baraats really do travel a bit of a distance, whilst others line up symbolically outside the wedding venue, where the groom’s side - family and friends – enter together. Often the groom participates in his baraat on a horse, accompanied by a fabulously loud brass band, with lights, fire crackers, dancing and yelling - the arrival of a baraat is one of the most amazing moments in an Indian wedding.

While all of this is going on, the bride’s family waits for the arriving baraat, greeting them with garlands and flower petals on the ground. Once everyone is together and the bride and groom are in the same place, the ceremony starts. Garlands are exchanged, vows are made, and as the couple walks round the scared fire, they are married.

If you are lucky enough to be invited to an Indian wedding, you are in for a visual and sensory treat. Colors, clothes, and jewelry like you’ve never seen before, accompanied by a boisterous overload of music, dancing, and food – oh, how one eats at an Indian wedding.

One major rule to keep in mind – you can never, ever be under-dressed, so wear your most wonderful clothes, knowing that no matter how magnificent your outfit, you will still be outdone!

Sources

City Insider - Visiting a Food Market in Yangon, Myanmar


Visiting a Food Market

Browsing a local fresh market is one of the most captivating activities of visiting any foreign country. It’s at markets where the real lifeblood of a country flows, where commerce and leisure meet, and nowhere is this more true than in Asia. Markets are where local residents converse, do business, share meals, and spend time together with friends and family.

Slotted in between Thailand, India, and Bangladesh, and with major influences from both China and Great Britain, Myanmar contains an extremely diverse range of market ingredients and cuisine. Yangon, the capital and most important city in the country, is home to a number of sprawling food markets that not only offer fresh produce from miles around, but also a variety of different pre-cooked meals and treats.

The early morning is the best time to visit a market in Yangon, as the most vibrant trade happens before sunrise when restaurant, street food, and business owners all converge to get their daily supplies. After that, the next wave of traffic comes from people hunting for breakfast and those looking to purchase ingredients for their daily cooking needs.

Eating breakfast at a Yangon market is always a joy – Bangladeshi-style dosa pancakes served with flavorful curries, spiced peas wrapped in flatbread known as pe byouk, a selection of donuts and pastries, and freshly sliced tropical fruit are among the many options. But the most popular breakfast dish of all is known as mohinga, a bowl of rice noodles in fish curry topped with crispy fried fritters and garnished with lime and chili pepper. Few things are more enjoyable than sitting on a low stool while being served a piping hot bowl of mohinga in the midst of a bustling Yangon morning market.

Many people in Yangon are extremely friendly, especially in areas where they are not accustomed to seeing foreign visitors, like at local markets. While slowly wandering through most any market in Yangon, I was frequently stared at with a mix of curiosity and friendly nosiness, and even invited to sit down to drink cups of tea and eat snacks on many occasions. The hospitality from strangers was inspiring.

In order to cater to a real mixture of different cultures and cuisines, there’s a colorful mishmash of produce in Yangon’s markets. Eggplant, potatoes, cauliflower, bitter melon, turnips, and beans mostly cater to the Indian inspired dishes, while green leafy veggies, carrots, cabbage, and mushrooms are generally more prevalent in Chinese dishes. Other ingredients like pickled tea leaves, nuts, chickpeas, fruits, and herbs are key components in traditional Burmese favorites.

Fish, red meat, and poultry are all common throughout markets in Yangon. Fish is most commonly used to make the broth for mohinga and in famous Burmese curries but can also be found marinated and grilled. Beef, goat, and chicken are cooked in rice biryani, simmered in curry, boiled in soups, or stir fried.

Banana, guava, dragon fruit, durian, jackfruit, mango, watermelon, and papaya are all widely grown in Myanmar. Something known as a sweet cucumber – a green and yellow gourd-looking fruit – is popular as a refreshing beverage and sweet dessert.

Having the chance to browse through a local market presents an unparalleled glimpse into the mix of cultures, the diversity of ingredients used in food preparation, and the way of life in Yangon. It’s a perfect eye opening introduction to the stimulating culture of local Myanmar.

Sources

City Insider - A peek behind the curtain of the Golden Triangle


Golden Triangle

The lush, mountainous chunk of land where Thailand, Laos Myanmar and Vietnam meet has long been one of Southeast Asia’s most noteworthy areas for a variety of reasons. There are the inevitable issues with cross-border migration and smuggling, but the “Wild West” image that some like to play up doesn’t really reflect the reality of this beautiful area.

Too many travel operators in Northern Thailand tack a night in Chiang Rai city onto a slapdash tour of the entire region. Visitors whisk in, see the statue of King Mengrai and drive past the brand-new clock tower before heading out to the ‘lawless’ frontier of the Golden Triangle. It’s too bad because there are some spectacular side trips in this laid-back regional hub – hill-tribe treks and elephant rides of course, but there are also a few surprises.

The best way to visit Chiang Rai is to snub the package tours and take a VIP bus from Rose-of-the-North Chiang Mai. You’ll arrive near the Night Bazaar, where there are plenty of Chiang Rai hotels. If you can stomach driving in Thailand, you may want to rent a car to explore the countryside on your own. Otherwise, hire a car and driver.

Chiang Rai is a slow-burning travel destination, and I recommend giving it two or three days to impress you. If the first 24 hours seem less than promising, you can always board a tour bus for the Golden Triangle. Just don’t be surprised if the House of Opium is about as lawless as the International House of Pancakes.

Here are few Chiang-Rai activities that are well worth looking into:

Drink coffee where it’s grown

Coffee is grown across all of Northern Thailand, but Chiang Rai is the caffeinated heavyweight. The bigger resorts and hotels in Chiang Rai each have their own trendy coffee shops, and many serve some of the freshest coffee you’ll find in Thailand. If simply brooding over a cup of java knowing it was grown locally isn’t enough, then consider signing up for a plantation tour at local heavyweight Doi Chaang or some of the smaller plantations in the surrounding hills.

Tour the White Temple

Artist Chalermchai Kositpipat (who also built the clock tower mentioned above) likes you to remember that in his humble youth he was a movie billboard painter. His temple is chocked full of emotive scenes vaguely reminiscent of What Dreams May Come, that last Pirates of the Caribbean movie and other flicks you forgot you’d ever seen.

Refreshingly free of gold-painted chedis and glass ‘jewels’, Wat Rong Khun is built from bleached-white stucco with a few well-placed mirrors to add extra layers of brilliance. The entire complex is filled with garish, sparkling white characters – sword-wielding giants, ephemeral nymphs and demonic, Marlboro-puffing gargoyles.  The most striking scene is a bridge across a chasm symbolizing Buddhist hell, complete with writhing hands grasping for light. One hand is holding an eye; another’s proudly flying the middle finger; still others are hoisting jars and begging for alms. The entire scene is as gritty and disturbing as it intends to be.

The political and pop-culture critiques are probably not as scathing or scandalous as they could be (a demon’s eyes reflect the faces Osama Bin Laden and George Bush), but hey, where else are you going to see a temple mural featuring Batman and Spiderman? Regardless of your final take on the White Temple, there’s no denying its originality.

Watch the sunrise at Phu Chi Fa

The logistics of this are a little tricky, but the view will redefine your Northern Thai experience. Phu Chi Fa is an abrupt 1,600-meter cliff overhanging the Lao border. Sunrises are spectacular, and if you arrive early enough you’ll be the first person in Thailand to see that day’s light break the eastern horizon. For the sun, the first order of business is dissolving the sea of fog that clings to valley below. It’s a well-orchestrated event that too many visitors are completely unaware of.

I’m not going to pretend like it doesn’t take two and a half hours to drive here from Chiang Rai city proper. If rising that early sounds daunting, consider ditching the accommodation in Chiang Rai for one night and staying in Thoeng, a small town not far from the cliff.

Ditch the highway

Long-tail boats dock at the pier just north of Chiang Rai city. They’ll arrange to take you back into Chiang Mai province, dropping you off a few hours later in the river town of Thaton. Prices vary, but a charter boat won’t set you back much more per person than a bus ticket, especially if you’re traveling with a small group. The trade-off affords relative seclusion, a scenic angle on Chiang Rai’s backcountry and the chance to stop by hill-tribe villages along the way.

Back in Thaton, daily buses depart for Chiang Mai city (170kms). Guesthouses and river resorts in Thaton are on hand if your boat arrives too late in the evening.

Sources

City Insider - India’s Republic Day Celebration



If you are anywhere near New Delhi in late January, then you have a treat in store, for on 26th January India celebrates its Republic Day. In fact, the holiday is celebrated all over the country, in every town, with flag hoisting, parades, military reviews, cultural programs and more, but the Parade To Beat All Parades takes place in New Delhi. This annual extravaganza really is one of the more spectacular events of the year and is a set piece absolutely not to be missed.

The parade takes place along Rajpath, a long, wide avenue that leads from the Presidential Palace, Rashtrapati Bhavan, to India Gate, the country’s iconic Arc de Triomphe-like war memorial.

Tiered seating, for which you need a (very modestly priced) ticket, is set up on both sides of the broad avenue, and though security is strict the mood is one of friendliness. That being said, certain things – like cameras – are banned. Make sure to read the instructions on your ticket carefully for a list of banned items, as there is nowhere to deposit cameras, phones, food, drink and anything else you might have felt like bringing along.

The parade opens with a dramatic Air Force fly-by, during which the lead plane showers flower petals on the President and his guests, while the stoic, horse-mounted President’s Body Guard trots below, pennants a-fluttering.

Air Force acrobatics overhead are matched on the ground by a display of the latest military hardware – giant ballistic missile launchers, tanks and other machines of war – and then precision marching by some of the country’s finest regiments, all turned out in their brightest ceremonial finery. However little one may like the idea of warfare or pageants trumpeting military might, I defy anyone to avoid getting caught up in the musical and visual splendor of the event. One highlight is when unique Bikaner Camel Corps strut past, their over-the-top mirror-work harnesses twinkling in the winter sun, amid the applause and cheers of the crowds.

After this come cultural performances from skilled artists representing selected states, with all manner of dancing and drumming, as well as floats representing regional achievements.

Huge cheers are always reserved for a small group of children who each year receive bravery awards from the President. As each child goes past, his or her story of bravery is told - rescuing a sibling from a raging river, saving a friend from being attacked by a leopard, fighting off robbers, etc. Some of the children are very, very young, and you wonder how on earth they found such courage. Until very recently the children rode down Rajpath on elephants, but safety concerns now has them riding in jeeps – safer but far less exciting.

The parade usually closes with an absolutely amazing display of trick motorbike riding by the Army’s dispatch riders. Zooming backwards down Rajpath reading a newspaper, rolling steadily along with 5 or 6 others in a human pyramid above the driver – the kind of clever, show-offy stuff that’s always a guaranteed crowd favorite.

By lunchtime, the parade is over, with the crowds dispersing in a cheerful, upbeat mood, while the final Air Force fly-by showers everyone with confetti in the national colors – green, orange and white.

To mark the end of Republic Day celebrations, a poignant ceremony called Beating Retreat takes place on the evening of the 29th in front of Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Presidential Palace. Dating back to the 1500’s the ceremony was used to recall military units patrolling nearby back to base, and is today performed in India to the accompaniment of regimental bands before an invited audience of diplomats, politicians and VIPs – sorry, no public viewing.

But before you give up in despair, take note that regular folks can observe the dress rehearsal of Beating Retreat that takes place the day before, on 28th January – at Rs50 per ticket, it’s one of the city’s best bargains. The only thing you don’t get to see at the rehearsal is the President himself. His car comes, though, to practice timing, so you’re not completely short-changed.

Don’t forget to stay for a spectacular display from the massed pipe and drum regiments, who every year play the moving Christian hymn “Abide with me,” which was a favorite of Mahatma Gandhi.

As sunset ends, and darkness falls, the short, 45 minute ceremony comes to an elegant conclusion. Finally, the entire complex of the Secretariat Buildings and Rashtrapati Bhavan is suddenly illuminated in a breathtaking burst of thousands of lights. There is a collective gasp from the crowds, so pretty is the effect.

However many times one has seen this, it is always an exciting, dramatic ending for an exciting and dramatic day.

Sources

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

The Continental Saigon Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City


The Continental Saigon Hotel

The first hotel we want to look at is the Continental Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City. Formerly known as Saigon, Vietnam’s largest city boasts a population of over 7 million people and what sometimes feels like as many motorbikes. As the financial hub of the country, HCMC has been booming over the last decade.

But while the city’s skyline is rapidly changing, you can still find remnants of the French colonial era, especially in historic District 1 (which is still called Saigon today). The Continental Hotel is a standout though, and one of the most notable buildings from the time of French rule. It was built in 1880 as a place where French nationals could recuperate in familiar surroundings after a long trip to a strange and exotic country. There are plenty of other historic buildings in the area that hearken back to colonial times as well, including the beautiful Saigon Opera House (aka HCMC Municipal Theater), which was built in 1897. Believe it or not, when it was built, it was criticized for being entirely too ornate! A few minutes’ walk from the Continental is the Notre Dame Cathedral and the old post office, which was designed by Gustave Eiffel.

But what makes the Continental the standout property in this area is the sheer number of historical events and notable folks that it has hosted throughout the years.

While there were certainly bigger hotels with fancier facades, the Continental became known as a place where notable names gathered, worked and slept soon after it opened. The most well-known guest was the British writer Graham Greene, who lived here for almost two years. It was here that he wrote The Quiet American, and was so enamored with his temporary home that it features prominently in his landmark novel. If you are on a literary pilgrimage you can even request to stay in the Graham Greene suite.

Other notable guests include the Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore (winner of the 1913 Nobel Prize for literature) and legendary U.S. reporter Walter Cronkite, who in 1968 used the hotel as his base as he reported on the Vietnam War after the shock of the Tet Offensive. During the war Newsweek and Time kept offices here as well, ensuring a steady flow of journalists at the hotel bar, which did a lot to maintain its reputation as a hub of social and political life. Indeed, sitting in the bar today it’s not hard to imagine it during the height of the war, hazy with smoke and filled with reporters, soldiers, spies and grizzled veterans of all types. Thankfully, it’s a bit more stress-free these days.

Post-war years saw the Malaysian Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamed and Jacques Chirac (then Mayor of Paris) stay here as well.

In the ensuing decades the Continental Hotel saw its fortunes wax and wane. While it began as the very definition of luxury it gradually fell into decline over the war years and then closed down after the fall of Saigon in 1975. It was not until the late 80's, when the country was opening up again after a period of economic isolation, that the hotel was once again open for business.

The Continental has recently undergone renovations, but its old-world charm has been retained with its unusually oversized rooms, wood paneled walls and fixtures that you just don't see in today’s hotels. And while it may no longer be the go-to place for politicians and journalists to meet, gossip and share ideas, it still remains as an iconic landmark in Ho Chi Minh City and an important part of the city’s history.

Sources