What do you thing about Bellissima Bangkok?

There’s a limit to how much Pad Thai one can eat in Thailand – actually, there’s not, I have proof – but anyway, should the love for one noodle wane, there are plenty of places ready to fill the void.

Because there are molto benny Italian restaurants in Bangkok, let’s focus on Sukhumvit. First stop is Limoncello on soi 11 – terrible frontage (it’s behind another Italian restaurant), excellent everything else. Pizzas are the point here and there’s a long list of them, plus the restaurant itself is cosy and casual.

Next stop is Little Italy – excellent frontage on the corner of Soi 23 and Sukhumvit, open 24 hours. The full food menu finishes around 2am but diners come and go all night for drinks on the patio. I always go for the Zuppa Del Mare here and while nothing is memorable, everything is passable, especially after stumbling straight out of Soi Cowboy. So I hear.

One of my favourite Italian restaurants (NB. I’ve not been to L’Opera yet) is Giusto. It’s got a posh modern vibe going for it and I always order the soft-shell crab salad and the salmon, and I’ve never been disappointed. The staffs are all crisp and polite and for me, this constitutes a special night out. Last time I went there, a meal for two cost 13000 baht, mostly on champagne.

Lastly, a vote for the veggo’s: Govinda. Eschewing conventional Italian meatiness, salads here are completely undersold by the ‘salad’ classification. Cheese is well represented, all ingredients are super fresh and the entire menu is done with imagination – even the ‘fake’ meat dishes some find so offensive. The Govinda salad, hot pizza bread and some risotto balls make my perfect meatless meal. Also the ‘Chicken’ Alla Funghi because I like things that are delicious, regardless of their fake-meat content.

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The best thing about the FCC Ankor

Lots of people boast how they stayed in Cambodia for 5c a night or whatever, but I don’t like sharing my room with livestock, so I opted for the FCC Angkor. This choice was in part influenced by the reviews I’d read of the FCC’s restaurant, which fortuitously delivered.

After a horrendous flight through what felt to be a multiple-vortex tornado, the last thing on my mind after touchdown was food. I’d felt it a major victory just keeping lunch down on descent, so at the top of my To-Consume list was a stiff drink or twenty.

Happily, the FCC Angkor is one cool dig. The Bar at Angkor befits the hotel’s boutique status and calming spirits were imbibed at $3 a glass. And what of the food? Appetites are easily reignited by a long Italian menu – duck salad, gnocchi and chilli mud crab three personal must-eats. Local Khmer dishes are also on offer and cheaper; the aromatic Amok Saich Trei (steamed fish/lemongrass/coconut cream) was practically inhaled.

The best thing about the FCC is breakfast. It’s complimentary and served until 2pm, which to me is revolutionary. You could do all your temple tours then come back and have your complimentary amazing breakfast! Plus, it involved proper bread with the fry-up articles. Revolutionary, I say! I could devote this entire blog to the Angkor Kitchen, but it would be remiss of me not to mention….

… Hotel de la Paix’s Meric With some perhaps tenuous links to a three-star Michelin chef, the International and Khmer dishes here are worth paying more for. When I visited, the menu included snake, which I felt compelled to try, but was less impressed with than I would have been with, say, the Aussie sirloin. The courtyard dining area here features tables and chairs on swings – great for lovebirds, not so great if you’ve just flown through a twister.

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Best Museum Restaurants in America

One of the most anticipated openings at New York’s MoMA PS1 last year didn’t involve a painter. It was the debut of M. Wells Dinette, where chef Hugue Dufour’s one-of-a-kind dishes are as experimental as the contemporary works on display.

The latest museum restaurants have embraced haute cuisine, artist-themed menus, and farm-to-table freshness. Far from relying on travelers as a captive audience for business or sticking to packaged fast foods, restaurants such as Ray’s and Stark at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art hold their own with the city’s trendiest tables—and inspire both travelers and locals to make advance reservations.

“We attract an international crowd as well as Chicagoans,” points out Tony Mantuano, executive chef of Terzo Piano at the Art Institute of Chicago. “Both groups of diners are always on the lookout for the cutting edge.” At Terzo Piano, that means bold flavors like a pork belly appetizer with brown sugar–aleppo pepper crust, plus a preference for the organic.

The strongest trend we noted among such museum restaurants is a commitment to locally sourced food made from scratch. Bon Appétit Management Company (BAMCO), which operates restaurants at more than a dozen museums and specialty venues, now offers crate-free pork, cage-free eggs, and humane ground beef.

“Museum food used to be an afterthought,” admits Fedele Bauccio, CEO and cofounder of BAMCO. “We’ve worked to extend the reach of the museum into the restaurant. Our chefs like to challenge themselves with special menus that enhance the guests’ experience of an exhibit,” he says, citing an example of highly stylized, black-and-white dishes prepared to complement an exhibit of Herb Ritts’s black-and-white fashion photography.

In Minneapolis, the Walker Art Museum stays open late the first Thursday of each month, and its restaurant Gather obliges with happy hour discounts and a tasting menu created by a guest chef.

Even family-friendly museums are getting creative with their food offerings. San Francisco’s Exploratorium is slated to reopen in April 2013 with a waterfront seafood restaurant that has interactive exhibits and a casual café that will host periodic food events and challenges. Can you tell the difference between a devil’s food cake with vanilla icing and a black bean cupcake with sour cream?

It’s just one of the surprises waiting at the best new museum restaurants.

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City Insider - Guide to Chiang Mai’s Buses

Chiang Mai may not have the transport infrastructure of Bangkok, but there’s still a well-oiled system in place for getting around town. The colored pick-up trucks called song thaews make up the backbone of Chiang Mai’s transportation system, but they’re backed by tuk-tuks, proper taxi cabs and a few brand new city buses.

The terminus of Thailand’s railway system is also in Chiang Mai, so long-haul buses are important for onward travel into northern areas. Whether you’re paying 20 baht for a short-haul journey down the street or 1,800 baht for the day-long haul to Phuket, you’ll need to use the public transport system at some point during your stay in Chiang Mai. The following is a quick guide to get you started.

Getting around Chiang Mai City

For the most part, transportation around Chiang Mai city proper is handled by tuk-tuks or song thaews, which are cheap and can carry several passengers. Tuk-tuks cost about three times as much as song thaews, but you don’t have to worry about them slowing down to pick up other passengers en route to your destination. Both modes of transport cost roughly 50 per cent more after hours.

You’ll see song thaews of other colors (ie, not red) plying the major avenues in Chiang Mai. These operate on fixed routes according to a regular schedule, and they’re cheaper by far than most other forms of transportation. These are useful if you know exactly where you’re going, as you’ll need to ring the bell and disembark at the right time. All the signs on these trucks are in Thai, so only board if you’re confident that you’ve got the right one.

For years, there has been talk in Chiang Mai about setting up a proper city bus network. It’s finally starting to happen, though the local community still prefers to use song thaews. These follow fixed routes and connect to key locations around the city. They’re slow, but cheap, and there are usually plenty of seats open. Look for maps with these routes marked in free English language magazines and pamphlets available around the tourist districts.

Long distance buses 

From the Arcade: this is the main bus terminal in Chiang Mai. Some people call it the ‘New Terminal’, to distinguish it from its older counterpart at Chang Pheuak. But you’ll get more mileage out of calling it the Arcade, as this is how most tuk-tuk, taxi and song thaew drivers refer to it themselves.

The Arcade bus station handles all of the connections to destinations outside of Chiang Mai province. Green Bus is the main carrier here, with routes connecting all over Northern Thailand. The company even offers a direct line via VIP bus to Phuket, which weighs in at a whopping 24 hours. Bear in mind that Green Bus operates out of the brand new terminal, which is across the street from the old terminal.

Minivan service to Pai is a major tourist service from the Arcade. Most of the routes operate with 15-passenger air-conditioned vans, though there are a few departures per day on more slightly more comfortable miniature buses. Both cost the same, so it’s worth booking a ticket early if you prefer the bus, which is slightly less cramped.

Getting to the arcade is easy. It’s located east of the city center along Kaewnavarat Road, near the intersection with the Superhighway. Red truck and tuk-tuk drivers from anywhere in the city are generally willing to take passengers here.

Chang Pheuak Bus Station:
This is the other major long-distance station in Chiang Mai, but short-term tourists are less likely to pass through. All of the buses from Chang Pheuak Station connect to cities in Chiang Mai province, with one exception – the bus to Lamphun. Travel times on the routes out of Chang Pheuak are relatively short, so you won’t find any deluxe or VIP buses here. Common destinations from here include Chiang Dao and Fang.

Chang Pheuak station is immediately north of the old city. Head directly out of Chang Pheuak Gate (the North Gate) and turn right where the one-way road becomes two-way. It’s a long walk from Tha Pae Gate or a very short ride by red truck or tuk-tuk.

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Hilton Garden Inn Williamsburg - Great Value

This hotel is centrally located, if you choose, you can walk to nearby restaurants.

The is a gym if you choose to work out, but all we did was eat. A warm and nicely decorated lobby with chairs, couch and a TV 

Freshly baked cookies to munch on, a kiosk for beer wine soda and candies, etc.

You can purchase Bush Garden or Water country tickets in the lobby of the Inn from anyone of the Employees behind the desk.

I can't say enough about the service we received.

Nancy and Craig at the front desk were professional, courteous, informative, and attentive too our needs. 

The Hotel was spotless, fresh towels and a host of useful amenities in our room.

The breakfast buffet was much more than I expected and I would rate it an A+++ , everything was freshly made and cooked to order.

Gloria; The buffet hostess, was friendly, outgoing and informative. She seated us quickly and took the time to explain what was on the menu, how it was prepared and what the order process was, furthermore she recommended local area attractions. She should be commended for her diligence and thoughtfulness.

Pool is a bit small, but the rest of the Garden inn more than makes up for it.

Great Job Hilton, keep up the good work.

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Five Best City Markets in Europe

For some it’s the glitzy stores of New York and Paris.

For others it’s the designer ateliers of Rome and Amsterdam.

But for many, shopping is best down on the street, up hidden alleys and in picturesque squares.

Europe has a huge choice of markets selling everything from bric-a-brac to food, from designer lookalikes to books and papers.

Here are our favorites.

1. Great Market Hall, Budapest, Hungary

The Great Market Hall in Budapest can be found on the Pest side of the great Liberty Bridge (which links both parts of the city).

It’s a three-story construction that, at the end of the 19th century when it opened, was deemed one of the world's most modern market halls, with state of the art lighting and refrigeration.

Vast and airy, it's been described as a cathedral in iron, with a canal running through its center so that barges could deliver fresh produce to the traders. The canal is no longer there -- it's been replaced by wide elegant thoroughfares between the stalls.

The hall was badly damaged during World War II and was eventually closed when it became a danger to patrons.

In the mid-1990s it was extensively restored and now takes pride of place as one of the city’s great attractions.

It’s easy to navigate with mostly fresh produce on the ground floor, game, fish and a supermarket in the basement and the best of Hungarian arts and crafts alongside bars, cafes and food stalls on the first floor.

A guided tour can help you find your way through the various sausages, hams, salamis and locally revered langos -- a deep-fried doughy confection topped with sour cream and cheese.

If you buy only one thing, make it a packet of smoked paprika, which will add more than memories to your cooking at home.

How to get there: Although it’s quicker from the city center by metro (M3 Blue Line) to Kalvin Ter, the best way is to take a tram, to see the city as you go. Budapest has more than 30 trams -- it's a great way to travel. Take trams 2, 47 or 49 to the Liberty Bridge.

2. Mercat de San Josep de la Boqueira, Barcelona

Barcelona’s great food market is so beautiful that, although it exists to provide fresh produce to locals, it's become an icon of the tourist trail.

In the heart of Las Ramblas, the Mercat de San Josep de la Boqueira is recognized as one of the finest markets in the world, as well as one of the oldest -- there has been a market on this site since the 15th century.

Fresh fruits, fish and shellfish, hams and chorizos, freshly baked bread and pastries -- everything is here.

Traders call you to taste their goods -- around the market's circumference are stalls where you can enjoy breakfast, coffees or tapas throughout the day.

Full of locals buying and gossiping, and visitors viewing and tasting, the market is the soul of the city.

How to get there: From the city center and the Plaza de Catalunya walk straight down La Rambla, the city’s most famous thoroughfare. La Boqueira is half way down on your right. Walk slowly and it should take 8-10 minutes.

3. Grand Bazaar, Istanbul

Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. It has more than 3,000 shops and 61 streets.

It’s easy to get lost -- but who cares?

The fun is in wandering down lanes of leather wear and works, streets of tiny silver and gold shops, places for carpets and cottons, emporia of spices and herbs, silks and shoes.

The latter are piled high in every color, harking to times when the city's different cultures wore different colors -- Turks wore yellow, Greeks wore blue, Armenians wore red, Jews wore black.

The place resonates with history, but while half of it is as old as time, the rest is as modern as tomorrow with designer clothes and lookalike handbags, purses and furs. Haggle for everything -- it’s expected.

There are tiny cafes serving thick aromatic Turkish coffee alongside apple tea and rose- and pistachio-flavored Turkish delight.

This isn't a place for a quick visit. Just as you think you’ve seen enough, you’ll turn a corner and find more treasures (and trash).

How to get there: While taxi fares are cheap, the traffic is dense. Better to take the metro from Sultanahmet (city center) to the Carsikapi stop. From here, the market is in front of you.

4. Portobello Road, London

Portobello Road runs almost two miles through the heart of London’s Notting Hill, lined with small shops and stalls offering furniture, silver, vegetables, porcelain, paintings and trinkets.

While most shops are open throughout the week, it swells with visitors, stallholders and shopkeepers on weekends.

The top end of the market, nearest Notting Hill tube station (which goes bilingual on weekends, with announcements in Italian), is the place to find antiques and secondhand artifacts as well as vintage designer handbags and furs.

The remaining vintage fashions can be found only on Fridays at the further end of the road near the Westway flyover. This is where designers send scouts to rummage through fashions from the last five decades.

In between there’s a host of shops, stalls, supermarkets, cafes, pubs, fast food outlets, restaurants and musicians; the smaller streets offer specialty stores, such as the Travel bookshop and Books for Cooks.

How to get there: In west London, it's just 10 minutes by taxi from the west end. However, it's quicker (and cheaper) to take the tube. The Central Line goes to Notting Hill Gate. The market is a five-minute walk from the tube station.

Alternately, take the Hammersmith and City Line to Ladbroke Grove and you're just one street away from the thick of things.

There are a number of buses from Oxford Street, Hyde Park and Kensington (7, 23, 52, 28, 328). Ask the driver to let you know when to get off.

5. Les Puces, Paris

Les Puces (The Fleas) is what locals call Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, the largest antique market in the world at Porte de Clignancourt.

Covering seven hectares it’s awash every Saturday, Sunday and part of Monday with a heaving mass of humanity. Go early (or at least before lunch) to see it at its best, and to avoid too much of a struggle to see the rest.

Stalls, shops and street traders sell everything from cheap clothes to art nouveau mirrors, from ancient linens to Empire sofas, old books, ecclesiastical kitsch and vintage kitchenware.

If you’re in search of a rococo armoire you may well find it here, or even a hussar’s chapeau. But you’ll need to know your subject.

Amid the conglomeration of traders are a number of serious experts who will take time to take you through their stock. Most will pack and ship larger items.

Paris is often quiet on Sunday mornings, so if you want to avoid crowds, this is the time to be at the market.

How to get there: Take the metro to Porte de Clignancourt or Porte de Saint-Ouen, then follow the signs or the crowd.

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The Best Delights of Sri Lanka

For a small country, Sri Lanka has so much to offer, from game drives in the national parks to world-class surfing beaches, from ancient Buddhist sites to misty tea plantations.

Most visitors arrive by air in Colombo, so after a day or so settling in and perhaps sleeping off jet-lag, it is time to explore a charming, friendly, picturesque country.  The choice of where and what to see is, naturally, very personal. Some visitors may well opt to lie on a beach for their entire stay, which is fair enough, but a bit of a crying shame, when there is so much waiting to be explored.

You could do worse than start your trip by visiting the major historic sights, which are essential to understanding the religious and historical psyche of the country.The rock temples of Dambulla and the stunning frescoes of Sigiriya are both breathtaking – the latter both literally and metaphorically, since it involves a steep climb up to the top of Sigiriya rock.  A piece of advice – visit Sigiriya early in the morning, so that you can puff your way up the steps in relative cool.Relative is the key word here, since we are talking about a tropical island.

The ancient kingdoms of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura are a dreamer’s, a poet’s and a photographer’s delight. Tumbled masonry, columns, stupas, and ancient, enigmatic Buddhas watch over you. Trees and creepers lend a certain abandoned feel to the sites, as you wander around unhassled by anyone, monkeys playing in the branches above you and Buddhist monks kneeling quietly in contemplation.

Kandy, a pretty temple town, in central Sri Lanka is home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth.  If you are planning a trip there in July-August, you will be lucky enough to witness the Perahera, one of the world’s most amazing religious processions ever.

After days exploring the marvels of all these ancient cities, it will be high time to move onto cool, misty Nuwara Eliya, which at nearly 2,000 meters is pleasantly chilly and delightfully time-warp-ish.  You will need sweaters even if you visit in the middle of summer: the hotels usually have fires lit in the evening, and will give you a lovely cozy hot water bottle at night.

Nuwariya Eliya has to be the absolute epitome of a hill station, even down to framed photographs of the Queen in seemingly every room of the grand old Hill Club.  When you see an oil painting of Prince Charles and the late Princess Diana in pride of place over a large fireplace that you know for sure the clock of fast-paced twenty-first century living has definitely stopped.

From the tea-planation-striated hills you drive south, losing altitude as you head for the beaches of the southern coast.  Sad vestiges of the 2004 tsunami remain as reminders of how this little island suffered, but the beaches and the pretty fishing villages seem to have recovered.

Galle is a delight, an absolute revelation, a beautiful gem, the epitome of living history, but completely natural and welcoming.  Within the fort walls there lives a thriving community – Montessori schools, picturesque antique shops, children playing cricket (what else, in Sri Lanka?), families out for an evening stroll along the fort ramparts, a whole bustling world, encased in a 17th century fort.

Colombo is your passage out of a dreamy holiday mind-set and back to the realities of modern life – in other words, shopping.  Lots and lots of it, in shops filled to bursting with export quality clothes.  Colombo is clean and chic and has just the right mix of lovely old colonial buildings and smart new districts.

Wherever you travel in this delightful country, you will be greeted with gentle smiles and genuine kindness, with people always ready to chat about cricket, which is (consider yourself warned) a national obsession.

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