Tips to Surviving the Monsoons

There are always advantages to every travel situation in life, and this is never more true than when you are planning a trip to India.

Never forget that this vast country is, geographically, a sub-continent.  From the snowy peaks of the Himalayas in the north, through the deserts to the west, down to the steamy heat of the south, there is a huge range of climatic zones.  So whenever you plan your journey, there will always be the weather factor to be considered.  Given the size of the country, there is no single ‘ideal’ time to visit India.

For example, if you wish to travel to Ladakh, high up in Kashmir, you can only do so during the hot summer months, when the snow melts in the passes, and the road and airport become, once again, accessible.

Much (but not all) of the country experiences monsoons between the months of June-September, with varying degrees of intensity, but do not for a moment let the thought of rain deter you from traveling around India.

The monsoons are, in fact, a lovely time to see the country.  Just a few showers are enough to transform parched dustiness and arid baked landscapes into lush, clean greenness.  Dust is washed away, as is the heat-induced weariness of people.  When it rains, people smile in relief and delight, and go stand out in the street, to relish those first deliciously cooling showers.

Not only does everything look cleaner and greener, there are usually far fewer tourists, so bookings are easier, monuments are not as crowded, and so what if it rains while you are sight-seeing?  You sit it out, chat to the people who will inevitably join you, and when the monsoon shower is over, off you go.

By and large Indians are not whiners.  So, when it pours down, far from grumbling, they smile and enjoy the rain.  You will see more smiles and laughter during the rainy season than at any other time, guaranteed.

So, travel during the rainy season and enjoy a quieter, cleaner, greener India, whilst accepting that it may, at times, be a little more chaotic than usual.

Here are a few tips to surviving the monsoons:

• Make sure you have a rain cape to cover your back-pack/day-pack – though you will get hot, be warned – and if you have an umbrella for sight-seeing, so much the better.  It will do double duty as a parasol and an umbrella.  Most monsoons showers are just that, showers, so an umbrella often makes more sense – you are not venturing out for hours on end in the rains, remember.
• Rubber flip-flops (known as chappals in India) are ideal footwear in the monsoons.  You have to take shoes off so often in India – inside places of worship, often inside peoples’ homes – that flip-flops make sense, in any case.  Plus, they don’t get spoiled by a sudden downpour.
• You must always be careful about drinking water in India – as in never, ever drink the tap water – and you do need to be especially vigilant during the monsoons, since pipes do burst and water does overflow.
• Inevitably, where there is heat and rain, you will get mosquitoes, so be vigilant about protecting yourself.  Cover up in the evenings, use repellent, and don’t ever leave water stagnating around you – prime breeding ground.
• If the rains are especially heavy, your timetable might well get a little altered. For example, in the hills, small landslides sometimes happen, and so the road will get blocked, and you will be delayed.  There is nothing you or anyone else can do, so the only thing to do is to enjoy the rains the way the locals do.
• Sit back, wait for the landslide to be cleared/the overflowing road to drain/the rain to stop, and do that quintessentially Indian monsoon thing – have a steaming hot cup of tea and a plate of pakoras, and enjoy the rain.

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Port Louis - Mauritius's Capital

Port Louis, the capital city of Mauritius is every bit as charming as you would expect from such a pretty little tropical island.

Port Louis is quaint, just historic enough, but yet also small enough for you to wander around on foot, soaking up the hustle and bustle  - but not too much hustle and bustle.  This is a holiday island, after all.

Port Louis sits between the peak known as Signal Hill and the sea, and as good a place as any to begin exploring is at Le Caudan Waterfront. When the waterfront opened in the late 1990s, it was a source of much amazement, containing as it did possibly the first escalator in the country.  People from small villages in the interior of Mauritius came just to have a look at the escalator.

Now it has become a popular and well-established social, shopping and business, hub with its mix of cafes, shops, galleries, office space , a top-class five-star hotel and the impressive Blue Penny Museum. This is far and away the island’s most up-to-date and interactive museum, featuring the iconic stamp that has made Mauritius so famous in the world of philately.

Leaving the waterfront and the Indian Ocean behind you, turn round and take in the view of Port Louis. It really is spectacular. An avenue of old palm trees leads up Intendance to Government House, where Queen Victoria gazes out over the orderly traffic, neat gardens and the solid 19th-century colonial era buildings built out of the island’s trademark volcanic rock.

Turn right out of Intendance, and walk the short distance to the Mauritius Institute, a charming completely old-fashioned national museum - in the way (sadly) very few museums still are these days. Slightly dusty displays of shells and fish and coral, all displayed in reassuringly solid-looking wooden display cabinets and, best of all, the star of the Museum and the emblem of the island, a dodo.

The last time I visited the museum I was told very politely that I couldn’t take picture of the dodo. When I asked why, the man smiled and said he had no idea, it was just a rather silly regulation and why didn’t I go ahead and take a picture all the same.

It’s that kind of place.

Next door to the Mauritius Institute are the Company Gardens, a haven of peace and cool greenery in the capital city. Banyan trees with their long, trailing tendrils, the colonial era bandstand, and statues of serious looking British dignitaries, all give these pretty little gardens a delightfully timeless feeling.

From the Company Gardens, walk a few streets further away from the sea, towards the hills and you will come to the city’s St Louis Cathedral, surrounded by some elegant surviving colonial bungalows.

Cross back across Intendance (ask if you get lost, you couldn’t meet friendlier people than Mauritians) and visit the  iconic Central Market. Wander through remarkably clean cobbled alley-ways, between stalls selling a huge variety of fruit and vegetables, some familiar and some completely unfamiliar – the delightful varieties that are found only on the island.

One of the main arteries of the city is Route Royale, or Royal Street.  The architecture of this street is typical of the old-fashioned heart of Port Louis, with strong wooden doors leading into the cool, dark, cavernous shops, the street bordered by deep storm drains, to handle the rain that lashes the country during cyclones.  Potter in and out of these slightly sleepy looking shops, that sell an eclectic variety of merchandise – marbles, silks, electronic goods, knitting wool, padlocks  – you name it, these old-fashioned emporia will have it. All along the streets there are vendors selling clothes, food, fruit, and during office lunch hours the streets in the city centre are abuzz with workers eating and shopping.

Walking along Route Royale gives you a flavour of the cultural diversity that makes this country so charming. Next to the impressive white and pistachio green Jummah mosque is an archway announcing the beginning of Chinatown. This is the part of town to head for if you want good, reasonably priced authentic Chinese food.

If you are in Port Louis during the winter horseracing season, you are in for a treat. Head to the charming little racecourse called Champ de Mars, and witness a country completely obsessed with horses and racing. Surrounded by hills on one side and a bustling Chinese temple on the other, and with a view of the Indian Ocean beyond, you couldn’t wish for a more picturesque setting in which to have a flutter.  The city comes to a standstill, everybody heads for the racecourse, food stalls are set up and an afternoon of fun and good-natured shouting and cheering ensues.

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Spring into Sydney

Winter in Sydney is a drag. As a city very much about its coastlines, sunshine and outdoor activities, the rain and cold make Sydney – and Sydney-siders – quite inhospitable. While there are certainly blindingly bright sunny days to be had in the middle of August, these are far outnumbered by stretches of miserable rain, cold grey mornings and blustery, tomb-dark evenings that begin as early as 5pm.

Thus, when the bitter gales whipping off the harbor finally begin to mellow and the sun warms and intensifies, Sydney starts its annual metamorphosis from cranky old crone to frolicking party pal. Full revelry won't begin until December, when three months of music festivals, open air cinemas, cultural fairs, cricket matches, food fests and beach parties ensue, but the shoulder season is great time to travel because hotels are cheaper and the beaches are far less crowded.

Every year, spring in Sydney brings with it a full schedule of special events. So, aside from the general enjoyment of outdoor touristic waterfronts such as Cockle Bay, Sydney Fish Markets, Manly Beach and Circular Quay, there are some specific events on that can enhance visitors' cultural understanding of what makes this stunning city tick.

Art

While it's not quite bohemia, Sydney has a very healthy fine arts scene. Just as spring kicks off, the Sydney Biennale is winding down (to Sept 16), but it sets the appropriate tone for lovers of contemporary art. Finalists for the Doug Moran National Portrait Prize are on show in the city until 9 October, while Sculptures by the Sea again sees installations and art works strewn along the picturesque coastal walk from Bondi to Bronte (18 Oct – 4 Nov) – a great way to take in the beaches and enjoy local art works simultaneously.

Glimpsing some local contemporary art in Sydney is made even easier by the Art and About initiative that runs throughout September and October, with exhibitions and installations set up in random places about the city.  For travelers who want a more focused look at Australian contemporary art, the MCA is a prudent diversion, conveniently located at Circular Quay.

Music

Music is a big part of life in Sydney, whether it's a dance festival or opera. Obviously, the Sydney Opera House has an impressive year round program, this spring including Just for Laughs comedy festival (12-22 Oct), Planet Earth in Concert and Blue Planet (25-27 Oct), the Legendary Count Basie Orchestra (13 Oct) and Scissor Sisters (27 Sept).

One major music event that heralds the warmer weather for younger music lovers is Parklife, an outdoor festival with electronic bands, DJs and indie rock/pop/dance artists, held in the gardens of Centennial Park. Classical music is also featured this spring, with the Australian Chamber Orchestra performing concertos by Mozart, Handel and Vivaldi (Oct 13) and Verdi's Aida playing at the Opera House throughout September and October.

Family 

Sydney is a kid-friendly destination with lots of fun outdoor activities geared towards families and younger travelers. Aside from a vast array of patrolled beaches and green spaces, there's Taronga Zoo, a short ferry ride from Circular Quay and the Sydney Aquarium at Cockle Bay in the city. Right next door is Wildlife Sydney Zoo, which has one of the world's biggest crocodiles and hosts weekly Koala Breakfasts where guests start the day with a buffet breakfast amid trees filled with koalas.

In the same precinct is the recently opened Madame Toussauds, open every day, there are daily cruises around the harbor, plus the Sydney Monorail Treasure Hunt that stops at the city's most picturesque points, inviting kids to find clues and enter a competition to win a family holiday on the Gold Coast.

For families interested in sustainability, the Cruelty-Free Festival in Belmore Park in Haymarket showcases vegan food, local organic produce, with more than 60 food vendors, market stalls, live entertainment, face painting and cooking demonstrations.

Beaches 

Sydney's beaches are tough to stay away from when the weather's good.  October and November will have some brilliantly dry, blue days without the punishing heat of summer. Still, beach-goers should don a hat and sunscreen, Australia's UV rays being a lot higher than those of other equally as sunny places around the world.

The most obvious beach destination is Bondi, which has everything: food of all types (fish n chips to fine dining), showers, a gym, a topless area, a skate park, lots of sand and green spaces. It also gets very crowded.

A nice alternative is Watson's Bay, a five-minute drive away on the headland. It's not a surf beach, so it's better for kids, plus there's a park and food/change facilities close by.  Bronte is also close to Bondi Beach, with more park space and seats and barbecues. The sea here is generally rough and not good for weak swimmers.

On the north side, Manly is a great family beach and easily accessible by ferry (30 minutes from Circular Quay). There is also Clontarf beach a 10-minute drive away from Manly. It's off the beaten path in one of the city's most affluent neighborhoods, so expect to find many residents there.  Another attractive, affluent beach is Balmoral Beach on the north side. It has a lovely promenade and lots of green space, but also gets crowded at weekends.

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Bangkok Cinemas

Going to the movies might not sound like a very exotic travel experience, but Bangkok is ever a city of surprises. Luxurious, clean, (too) well air-conditioned, well-priced and with screenings in English or in the case of 'foreign' films, with English sub-titles, Bangkok's cinemas are everything you wished you had back home.

Though most of what you'll find at the main chains is Hollywood blockbusters and mainstream English-language cinema, Bangkok also offers indie and arthouse flicks, foreign film festivals and documentaries. Film buffs interested in Asian cinema might appreciate the chance to catch a Thai horror film – the genre is very well-developed and includes highly-stylized chill-inducing remakes of traditional Thai ghost tales.

If you travel during 'winter' – the dry season from November to March – you also stand a good chance of catching an outdoor movie screening.Last year, the Goethe Institute, Rock Around Asia and Alliance Francais all hosted open air movie screenings – it's worth keeping an ear to the ground for these unique – and frequently free – cultural events.

Below is a breakdown of Bangkok's main cinemas and what you can expect at each. As a rule, all English-language movies are screened in English, all foreign films have English (and usually Thai) subtitles, and all Thai films have English subtitles. In all cinemas, expect at least 20 minutes' worth of trailers and the King's anthem, for which everyone has to stand. In the bigger cinemas your seat is numbered, but you get to choose where you want to sit before you pay.

Major Cineplex in Siam Paragon, BTS Siam

This is the city's flashiest cinema, run by the biggest chain. The volume in all cinemas is LOUD, the air is cold and queues can get long on the weekends. A popcorn and soda combo is around 155 THB, but you're by no means limited to traditional cinema snacks. Here, you can get sausages, sandwiches, beer, Thai nibbles, and basically whatever tickles you from the McCafe or Starbucks inside the lobby.

The Enigma Shadow Screen is the most exclusive cinema here, with only a dozen or so sofas, complete with cushions, blankets, free-flow popcorn and a complimentary drink (wine, beer or basic liquor). Tickets are 1,500 each, but they don't sell singles, you must go as half of a pair or submit to paying the full 3,000 THB yourself, then looking like you've been stood up by your date.

The next rung down the ladder is a Nokia Ultra Screen. A ticket (700-800 THB) gets you access to the Nokia lounge, which has massage chairs and drinks/food service, including beer, liquors and wine. Inside, recliners are paired together – you get a blanket and food service throughout the movie so you don't have to get up.

For those who don't readily suffer whiplash, a 4D screening is a good option for an action flick. Puffs of air, a 'bucking' seat and 3D effects draw viewers into the movie, though the gusts of wind might be distracting for some. Tickets are 450 THB. IMAX is also a good choice for action films and animation – a great treat for kids who aren't too sensitive to sound (it's quite loud). Most IMAX films are 3D – tickets cost 350-500 THB.

A regular seat in a 'normal' cinema costs from 150-200 THB, with specials for students on Wednesdays. They're comfortable, if somewhat chilly, and include 'love seat' sofas at the back at extra cost. SF Cinema at Central World also offers deluxe and normal cinemas for roughly the same price and with similar services, though not as conveniently located near the BTS (it's between Siam and Chitlom stations), though there's another one – SF Cinema City – inside MBK.

Lido and Scala, BTS Siam

These stand-alone cinemas were amongst the first in Bangkok, constructed in the late 1960s and sporting funky retro décor. As with any old-style cinema, you trade some modernity for ambience, but there's no compromise here on comfort. At Scala, which is a single-screen cinema, tickets cost 100 baht each and popcorn is 30 THB. The theater is a grand, plush space, truly reminiscent of yesteryear.

Nearby, the somewhat less glam Lido offers three screens. Both cinemas are run by APEX and all have Dolby Surround Sound. They screen a mix of independent, art house, documentary and blockbuster flicks. Rumors abound that Scala and Lido will soon be pulled down for more development in the Siam Square zone, and though various local groups vehemently oppose it, these vestiges of 1960s Bangkok could be living on borrowed time. Better check them out while you have the chance.

House RCA, Rama 9

A little off the grid for foreign travelers, House in the clubbing zone of RCA screens independent and foreign films for 100 THB per ticket. In the true spirit of indie films, this boutique space is hip and modern, there's a café onsite and a film and DVD library where you can buy and rent (if you are a member) a selection of Thai and foreign films. There's WiFi for a fee and the cinema is inside a complex with various restaurants and a shopping center for convenience. The cinema frequently screens its own 'pop-up' film festivals with reduced ticket prices, so it pays to keep an eye on the schedule for the latest information.

Caveat: In any screening with enough people in it, you may encounter chatting, will probably hear some snoring (but to be fair, the seats are really comfortable) and it's practically guaranteed there'll be someone texting or even chatting on their phone during the movie. There's not really anything you can do about it besides move to an empty seat after the movie begins.

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City Insider - Montmartre

Pigalle.  Le Moulin Rouge and le Moulin de la Galette. Artists and cabaret dancers.  Toulouse-Lautrec and Jane Avril.  Drinkers and “poseurs” - the very word Pigalle seems to sum up all that is naughty about Paris, or at least all that people think is naughty.

Today, Pigalle tries hard to live up to the expectations of the visitors who still come looking for traces of the romanticized Naughty Nineties (of the 1890s variety, I hasten to add).

Pigalle, with its dubious cinemas and peepshows, is at the foot of probably the most famous of the hills in Paris, Montmartre. Montmartre has many claims to fame : it was (and still is) home to innumerable artists and writers. It was briefly an independent commune in the 19th century. And it is the site of the only vineyard in Paris.

Part of the fun is getting to Montmartre.  You can walk up the steep cobbled streets from Pigalle.  Or you can take the funicular train, for a quick ride up the hill, admiring the view as you go.

In the early 19th century, Montmartre was a pretty country village, way outside Paris.  Since Baron Haussmann had not yet built the wide streets and avenues that would so alter the physiognomy of Paris, access to Montmartre was difficult and so land was consequently cheap.  Artists gradually settled there, and the inhabitants of “La Butte” (the knoll) read like a roll call of the French literary and artistic scene of the 19th-century - Berlioz, Heinrich Heine, Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Van Gogh, Utrillo.  The artists congregated in cafes and bars, or at the Moulin Rouge nightclub, whose singers and dancers such as Jane Avril and la Goulue were immortalised by Toulouse-Lautrec in his paintings.

Today, coach-loads of visitors follow in the artistic steps of these 19th-century Bohemians, gravitating to the pretty Place du Tertre. This little square, which has come to symbolize Montmartre in the eyes of many visitors, still manages to retain a charming village atmosphere about it, especially in the mornings, before Montmartre has welcomed its day's quota of visitors.


Later in the day, artists of varying skill and price set up their easels on the cobblestones of the Place du Tertre. Visitors stroll, sit and have their portrait sketched, or sip a drink at a pavement cafe.  There are paintings galore on sale, too, mainly endless romanticized reproductions of Montmartre.

Dominating Montmartre is the striking white Basilica of Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart), an integral part of the Paris skyline, with its 19th-century Romano-Byzantine inspired  cupolas and dome.  From the dome there is a superb view of the city, and on the steps in front of the church, you can sit and listen to folk musicians, gospel singers and would-be rock stars strutting their stuff.

One of the surprises of this admittedly major tourist mecca, is the existence of a tiny vineyard, the Montmartre vineyard.  The vineyard celebrates the start of the grape harvest on the first Saturday of October, and if you ask for it in the local restaurants, you can taste the wine which is usually consumed its exclusively in the cafes and restaurants around the Butte.

Around the vineyard are pretty ivy-covered houses, little flights of steps, and the famous rustic looking “Au lapin agile” bar, the haunt of well-known writers and artists in the early 20th century, which is now haunted by equally earnest 21st-century hopefuls.

At the beginning of the 20th century there were still many windmills on Montmartre, but only a couple are still in existence today - the picturesque Moulin de la Galette, and on the corner of the rue Lepic, the Radet windmill.

As befits this bohemian neighbourhood, Montmartre cemetery is the last resting place of many artists, among them the Russian dancer Nijiknsky, the Impressionist painter Degas, and the local artist, Poulbot.

Look in any souvenir shop in Paris, and you will still see reproductions of Poulbot’s iconic line drawings of cute wide-eyed waifs, that have come to epitomise the spirit of Montmartre.

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The English university town of Cambridge is half of the famed Oxbridge

The English university town of Cambridge is half of the famed Oxbridge, the convenient twinning of the two ancient universities of Oxford and Cambridge into a united academic entity – a concept which exists only in theory, as in practice the two towns are far apart and have had a healthy rivalry for something like 900 years.

Oxford may well be the older of the two universities, but in terms of beauty and pure aesthetics, Cambridge is the clear winner.

Oxford is beautiful, but much of the beauty is hidden away within the privacy of the colleges. Cambridge, on the other hand, flaunts her beauty and fabulous medieval architecture for everyone to see. At every turn of the city’s winding cobbled streets, there is seemingly a college, a chapel, a distant glimpse of an ancient spire – architectural excellence everywhere.

There is no better place to start in Cambridge than by strolling along The Backs - the rather prosaic, unassuming name for what are in fact glorious college gardens that slope down toward the River Cam. The river winds gently along with The Backs on one side and the soaring spires of the colleges and their chapels on the other, while undergraduates and tourists try their hand at painting, often with noisy and hilarious results.

As good a place as any to view the panorama of the river is from the wooden Mathematical Bridge which leads to Queens’ College. One of the quirky things about Queens’ College – which very definitely has its apostrophe ‘s’ after the word Queens – is that it was actually founded twice - once in 1448 by Margaret of Anjou and again in 1465 by Elizabeth Woodville, hence the rather idiosyncratic name.

Further along the river is (perhaps predictably) King’s College, a staggeringly beautiful institution that was built between 1446 - 1515 by three Kings – Henry VI, Henry VII and Henry VIII - but this time there is no grammatical hairsplitting about the apostrophe. King’s College Chapel is probably one of the most beautiful buildings in England and has been praised by poets and writers over the centuries. William Wordsworth wrote three sonnets about King’s College Chapel and the highly accomplished architect Sir Christopher Wren is reputed to have marveled at the largest single-span vaulted roof in existence. He offered to make one himself if only somebody could tell him where he should lay the first stone.

Gonville & Caius College (the final word confusingly pronounced ‘keys’) was founded in 1348 and has a charming and unique architectural quality. John Caius designed a series of gates and entrances to symbolize a scholar’s progress through the University. You enter the College through the gate of humility, progress through the gates of virtue and finally – just once in your academic career, the day you graduate - you pass through the symbolic gate of honor to receive your degree.

After you have taken a punt (a shallow, flat-bottomed boat) along the river, another ideal way to explore this beautiful university town is the way the undergraduates get around – on a bicycle. Wherever you go, there are bicycles parked in ancient college entrances and students cycling to and from lectures. And, in case you do decide to try your hand at punting on the river, do remember that Oxford uses one end of the punt as its stern, while Cambridge uses the opposite end of the punt as its stern. The friendly rivalry between these two universities exists on many different levels.

As well as the colleges, the University also has its own exceptionally good Museum, the Fitzwilliam Museum. You could spend days exploring this collection, which includes Roman and Greek relics, medieval antiquities and outstanding porcelain and pottery collections. But the stars of the museum are undoubtedly the paintings, with showcase pieces by some of the Italian old Masters.

If it’s true that aesthetic surroundings help to concentrate the mind and inspire students to academic excellence, then it is small wonder that Cambridge has produced a roll-call of renowned intellectuals and scholars over its 900 year history.

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City Insider - Biking in Bangkok

When people think of Bangkok, it’s a good bet that the first thing that goes through their mind is not riding a bicycle. Already legendary for its traffic jams and maze of concrete highways, the massive city of 8-12 million (depending on who you ask) is built for the car. Indeed, it only got its first above-ground electric train system in 1999, and its first subway a few years after that. Suffice it to say, wide, leafy sidewalks with plenty of room for walking and biking do not exist here.

However, despite its spaghetti-tangle of roads, alleys and pathways – or maybe because of them – Bangkok is an excellent city to explore on a bicycle, assuming you’re able to handle it with a medium amount of confidence and skill. There are temples, restaurants, shops – even entire communities – that are nearly inaccessible by car, and that lie well off the tourist trails.

Over the past few years there have been several attempts at creating an Amsterdam-style public biking community with stations located at popular areas where you can borrow a bike to get around on – each has met with varying degrees of success but none have taken off. Part of it is due to Thailand’s climate, which makes it unlikely that you’ll finish your bike ride in a cool, comfortable condition, and part of it is, as mentioned, Bangkok is built for cars – it’s not uncommon to see a designated bike path being used as a type of “parking lane” for vehicles large and small.

However, there are plenty of companies in Bangkok that will take care of all the logistics for you. A quick internet search will turn up dozens of tour companies that will take you on a back-roads tour of some of Bangkok’s hidden neighborhoods and little-known areas, from engine workshops to vegetable markets to mangrove swamps.

If you’d rather take the initiative on your own, there are also plenty of places that will rent you a bike, a lock and a helmet (always wear a helmet!) for you to explore at your own pace. If you’re going to be here for a while, you might think about buying your own bike – there are plenty of great bicycle shops in Bangkok that offer everything from basic cruisers for lazy park rides to carbon fiber racing bikes that cost as much as a condo down payment.

If you do take off on your own, here are some of the areas you can explore:

- Rattanakosin: Although there aren’t a lot of bike paths here, it’s still a great place to see on a bike. This is the heart of ‘old Bangkok’ where you can see the Grand Palace, Wat Po, and plenty of colonial-era architecture.

- Lumpini Park & Benjakitti Park: Two of Bangkok’s green spots perfect for jogging, walking, picnicking and bike riding (Lumpini only from 10am-3pm). They are actually joined by a wide elevated walkway that you can ride along.

- Suan Rot Fai (Chatuchak Park): This lush and expansive park is a very popular place for Thais to come on the weekend. You can rent bicycles for 40 baht and pedal around to your heart's content. Lots of trees for shade and food & drink stalls too if you get hungry.

- Prapradaeng aka Bangkachao: Bangkok’s ‘Green Lung’ is a giant expanse of mangrove swamp and jungle with very little development that is veined with raised cement pathways perfect for riding. It’s on the other side of the river – catch a ferry at Khlong Toey pier just off Rama IV Road.

With that in mind, always remember to be patient and give the right of way to basically everyone. Bangkok’s drivers are very fluid and aware of their surroundings, but accidents do happen. Ride safe and slow, and you should have a great time.

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The Battle of Good vs Evil - India’s Dussehra Festival

Take a brave group of gods and heroes and a beautiful virtuous queen whose legendary stories every Hindu knows by heart. Add a really, seriously nasty evil demon king and then throw in a spectacular open-air burning of the huge effigy of said evil demon king and ten days of celebrations, prayers, feasting and traditional plays, and you have (in a very rushed and inadequate nutshell) the Hindu festival of Dussehra.

Every year in October, as the cooler winter climate starts to dilute the harsh Indian summer, the season of Dussehra begins, signaling a stretch of pleasant weather and noisy, public festivities.

The festival itself is actually preceded by nine days of prayers and celebrations, and is the best time to experience the visceral punch of a Ramlila, a performance of the story of Ram and Sita and their conflict with the demon king Ravan.

Much like the colorful Bollywood films known the world over for their energy and emotional zest, Ramlila’s recount these much-loved legends in vigorous song and dance.­­ Ramlila’s vary from simple village productions to spectacular traditional performances, such as those in the Uttar Pradesh city of Varanasi, that last for an unusual 31 days. Here, traditional roles are handed down from generation to generation within the same family, such is the prestige of acting in one of these sacred plays.

Since everyone knows the story of Lord Ram and Sita by heart, watching a Ramlila production is an exercise in nostalgia and familiarity, and a perfect time for friends and family to come together – after the show, crowds drift home, talking, singing, and eating (usually vegetarian snacks during the festival). At this point, good has been overshadowed by evil, as the demon Ravan captured the virtuous Sita, but everyone knows that on the final night of the festival, after a long and epic battle, good will once again emerge victorious.

And so, on the evening of Dussehra, as the sun is setting, huge crowds flock to parks and communal grounds, where enormous bamboo-and-paper effigies of the evil king and his equally wicked sons are erected. Brightly painted and standing 20 or 30 feet tall, the images are torched to the cheers of the crowd who has come to see evil vanquished for another year.

Sometimes there are interesting twists that add a contemporary dimension to the ancient tradition. A popular production in Delhi every year adds a fourth effigy meant to represent a social evil or problem that affects the city. People to vote on what that effigy should represent and once chosen, a symbolic burning of the problem takes place, uniting the city around the elimination of a common problem – at least for another year.

In the last few days before Dussehra in Delhi, all roads lead to an otherwise unremarkable suburb in the west of the city, where itinerant craftsmen converge to make the effigies that will be burned. Hundreds of huge bamboo heads and bodies line the streets – heads on one side, bodies on the other – with jolly looking crowns and as-yet-unpainted faces laid out everywhere else as preparations inch toward completion. Gangs of workers carefully load the constituent parts of one demon king after another onto fleets of vehicles for delivery all over the city and surrounding areas, where families, friends and groups of all sizes can celebrate without having to leave the comfort of their homes.

Dussehra is yet another example of a vibrant, Indian festival that delights locals and amazes visitors as they travel through this exotic country. Indeed, festival preparations themselves are as much a metaphor as the festival itself – making these effigies of reviled demons is a thriving, lucrative business, employing many people, thereby proving that good can indeed come from from evil.

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Macau is Las Vegas of the East

If ever you wished to see contrast personified in front of your very own eyes, then head to Macau – it’s hard to imagine a bigger mix of timeless history and frenetic development occupying such a small space.

Macau is geographically part of China, but was historically part of Europe for some 350 years. When Portugal handed back this tiny parcel of land to China in 1999, it was the last vestige of the once-significant European occupation in the country.

Macau, like its bigger glitzier neighbor Hong Kong, is now a special administrative region of China – in effect, it’s China-but-not-quite-China, and that’s what makes it so intriguing.

Indeed, its history is full of interesting tidbits – for instance, there used to be two rather sleepy little islands called Coloan and Taipa that were connected by bridges to the Macau peninsula. But when progress came knocking in the 17th century, the land between the two islands was filled and reclaimed and presto, one much bigger island was the result.

But even after all the changes, traces of 350 years of Portuguese rule remain. For instance, road signs, shops, and menus are all still in Portuguese – but the most obvious is the architecture. The old, colonial buildings are wonderfully rococo European, with little forts and churches standing as solidly now as they have done for the past three centuries. There are quiet little piazzas and cobbled streets, but you do have to look for them, and treasure the fleeting moments of silence they offer away from the din.

Why?

Because all around them 21st century China has mushroomed at a breathtaking pace. High rises, hotels, casinos – ah, where would Macau be without casinos? – jostle for space, each one more fantastic and eye-catching than the other. Weird and wonderful architecture, mile upon mile of glitz, reclaimed land, and enough neon to rival Las Vegas - that is Macau today.

All paths in Macau lead to the historical showpiece, the ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral, which was built in 1602 and destroyed by fire in 1835. Although only the southern stone façade remains today, it is much visited and much beloved, though the shop-ification of the narrow cobbled streets around the cathedral may come as a bit of a shock. The slender pathways were empty and quiet 20 years ago, but now present a buzzing commercial district, where, should you choose, you can buy HK$40,000 bottles of wine. Still, the view from the top of the steps is pretty fantastic, the skyline of Macau laid before you in all its spiky glory.

Puff up the hill even further, climbing up behind St. Pauls’ to the Fortaleza do Monte, a 16th century fort with even more amazing views of the skyline. There are cannons all around the battlements, and inside the gardens, the Macau Museum.

Situated on the southwest tip of the peninsula is the A-Ma Temple, a Taoist temple built in 1488, and dedicated to Matsu, the goddess of seafarers and fishermen. It is always busy and crowded, the ceilings festooned with hundreds of huge, fabulous incense spirals, and offerings to the deities hanging from the branches of every tree.

But the main reason huge crowds of mainland Chinese flock to Macau, especially during holiday times, is to gamble. There are casinos literally everywhere. Huge luxurious hotel complexes have been built, the largest being the uber-glamorous The Venetian Macao, a Las Vegas-owned sister to the namesake hotel in Vegas, and currently the world’s largest casino.

It’s no surprise to learn, then, that gambling tourism is Macau's biggest source of revenue, accounting for some 50% of the economy, and after the large foreign-owned casinos started operations there, Macau quickly overtook the Las Vegas strip in gaming revenues. And of course, when all the lights come on in the evening in a blaze of neon for mile upon mile, it is quite a wonderful, glowing testament to both beauty and luck.

But to step back in time, take a bus from anywhere on the peninsula to the island(s) and once you are past the rows of expensive residential tower blocks, you quickly get back to an older, rural, more peaceful and traditional Macau, especially in Coloane. Beaches, thick wooded trails, and families out for a stroll are in delightful contrast to the glitz and shimmer of new Macau. But hurry – at this pace, the already scarce traces of an ornate, colonial past won’t last too much longer.

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10 Amazing Place - Tourist traps you don't want to miss

Yes, they are mentioned in every travel guide. Yes, they're teeming with tourists. But not all "tourist traps" are created equal. Here are 10 places our audience couldn't resist. And neither should you.

The Great Wall

Built between the 5th century B.C. and the 16th century A.D. to block outsiders, the 5,000-mile Great Wall has ironically become the very thing most visitors come to China to see. From Beijing, skip the most popular section, Badaling, which can be an exercise in dodging crowds. Instead travel an extra 30 minutes to the well-preserved segment in the model village of Mutianyu, itself worth exploring. Make the 90-minute journey by taxi—independent cabbie John Ping charges $112 round trip. Book him a week in advance and factor in a customary 10 percent tip (beijingcardriver.com).

Why it's a must: It's an astonishing testament to human ambition, ingenuity, and xenophobia, not to mention the fact that its size is astounding—it drapes the mountains in sections for 1,500 miles, from the Yellow Sea to its curiously abrupt conclusion in the middle of the far-west Gobi Desert.

Eiffel Tower

Believe it or not, the Eiffel Tower wasn't appreciated when it was built as the entrance to the International Exposition of 1889. A "barbarous mass overwhelming and humiliating all our monuments," and "a truly tragic street lamp" are just two of the protests published before it was built. Gustave Eiffel's contract called for the tower to be dismantled in 1909, but—luckily for the rest of the world—by then it was being used as an important communications tower and was allowed to stay. Today, it's the most visited monument on the planet. Skipping the elevator and taking the stairs to the first or second floor (1er or 2ème étage) can easily save you an hour or more in wait time and leave you with a few extra euros in your pocket.

Why it's a must: Yes, Paris' appeal goes well beyond classic images, but there's also something to be said for paying your respects to the most visited landmark on the planet—and the quintessential symbol of Paris.

Pisa

The ornate bell tower's dramatic flaw made it an engineering calamity, then a curiosity, and ultimately, an icon. The tower started leaning shortly after construction began in 1173, and the tilt got worse as work on the building continued over two centuries, with several delays and attempts to correct the problem. Blame the marshy soil of coastal Tuscany. An 11-year, $27 million restoration that removed soil beneath one side and shifted the top of the tower closer to vertical by 16 inches, or half a degree, was completed in 2001 (but don't worry, it's still leaning to one side). Most people make Pisa a day trip from Florence; it's an hour-long $10 train ride away.

Why it's a must: Because there is nothing else like it in the world. Go in knowing that you're there for the obligatory picture of you pushing or leaning on the tower.

Acropolis in Athens

Towering above Athens you'll find the architectural pinnacle of one of history's most advanced civilizations. The 2,500-year-old complex includes the Parthenon temple and Erectheion, the tomb of the mythical Athenian king, Erectheus. Come early in the morning—not only will you beat the crowds and the heat, but you'll get to watch the sunrise rise against the ancient pillars. Just down the hill from the Acropolis sits architect Bernard Tschumi's modern three-decades-in-the-making addition to the ancient site. The exterior of the glass-walled space, which holds 40,000 artifacts, reflects the Parthenon. One of the coolest features is the glass floor built over an excavation area dating back to 500 B.C.

Why it's a must: Yes, you've seen countless images of the acropolis, but no photo can prepare you for the feeling you'll get when you're standing before this massive, ancient structure.

Chichen Itza

The mysteries surrounding the ancient Maya seem only to heighten their appeal. Yet, there is one fact about this Mesoamerican civilization that we can all agree on—the architecture they left behind is some of the most elaborate of all of the Mesoamerican civilizations. The massive Maya site of Chichen Itza is a prime example of their structural prowess. The site was recently named one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World. One of the most visited archeological sites in Mexico, visitors come from far and wide to see ruins such as the sacrificial altar, the stone temple of the warriors, the ball court with its incredible acoustics, and, of course, the pyramid itself. Chichen Itza can be reached by car or organized bus tours (typically about $35 per person) from nearby tourist hubs like Cancun or Cozumel.

Why it's a must: There's no better way to understand the scale and mystery of the ancient Maya.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Just outside the city of Siem Reap, in northern Cambodia, lies a vast complex of ancient temples so breathtaking they've become a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a national symbol. In the 1960s, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy ventured here despite the Vietnam War raging across the border just to see the site; more recently, portions of Angelina Jolie's first Tomb Raider movie was filmed in one of its tangled, tree-filled ruins. The main "city temple" is a 12th-century structure that began as an homage to the Hindu god Vishnu, then switched to a Buddhist sanctuary in the 16th century. An example of Cambodian Khmer architecture, the complex has three rectangular galleries, central towers, a moat, and elaborate bas-relief carvings illustrating scenes from Indian mythology.

Why it's a must: When a country considers a place so iconic that they emblazon an image of it on their national flag, that's a sign that it's worth seeing. Join the visitors who flock here during sunrise and sunset for the best photos of the towers.

Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the Australian Outback

Located in Australia's Red Centre, in the heart of the continent, this natural rock formation is one of the main attractions in the World Heritage Site Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Uluru is a flat-topped sandstone rock standing about 1,100 feet high and almost six miles around, with a soulful, deep-red hue that changes throughout the day.

(The site is also known as Ayers Rock, so named by the colonial surveyor who "rediscovered" the place in 1873.) The site is sacred to the Anangu people of the Pitjantjatjara Aboriginal tribe, who believe the rocks were built during the ancient creation period and are still inhabited by ancestor spirits. Visitors can drive or join a bus tour to the park from Alice Springs (280 miles away), or fly to Ayers Rock Airport/Connellan (AYQ); Qantas and Virgin Australia offer direct flights from several major domestic cities.

Why it's a must: It's the world's largest monolith and one of Australia's most famous natural landmarks. If that's not enough, Archeologist work suggests there were humans in this area over 20,000 years ago.

The Pyramids of Egypt

The pharaohs built things to last. That's why the name of Cheops has survived for 4,500 years. After all, nothing says "Cheops was here" like a 450-foot-high pile of stones weighing 6 million tons and covering 13 acres. This Great Pyramid is the oldest, and last surviving, member of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It bakes under the desert sun in the western suburbs of Cairo, surrounded by nine smaller siblings and the inscrutable gaze of the Sphinx. An old Arab proverb holds that "Man fears Time, but Time fears the Pyramids." Summer delivers 90-plus-degree temperatures and winter brings tourist throngs, but the shoulder seasons (March to May; September to November) promise fewer, and less-sweaty, crowds.

Why it's a must: It's a scene that mankind has been marveling at for the past 5,000 years.

Barcelona

Whether you're a first-time visitor or a regular, Barcelona has a way of seducing all who pass through. You have the daring design of Antoni Gaudí, whose gorgeously macabre Gothic cathedral, La Sagrada Familia, is the city's most famous tourist site. You have loud and lively tapas bars, which range from rustic spots with sawdusty floors to clean-lined spaces starring globally trained chefs—the very embodiment of the mashed-up nature of Barcelona's culture. And then you have the beaches, where you can sunbathe, people watch, and swim to your heart's content. It's all so intoxicating, you'll find yourself thinking one thing: What should I try next?

Why it's a must: Culture, cuisine, and coastline—what more do you want in a vacation?

Venice

Venice teeters on the edge of cliché with its lacework of canals, its domes and gilded spires, its kiosks with straw gondolier hats and refrigerator magnets in the shape of the Piazza San Marco. Postcard fodder, and yet ... Venice is beautiful. It has been so for centuries.

To be a tourist in Venice is to join a procession reaching back to the 14th century, when pilgrims stopped en route to the Holy Land. To capitalize on its geography as the departure point for voyages to the East, the canny Venetians created festivals to coincide with the influx, a hint of the commercialism to come. Irritating, that wallet-squeeze, but one you inevitably force yourself to stomach, particularly when catching sight of the Venice silhouette for the first time from the mainland shore of the lagoon. Yes, you have to take a boat or walk to get anywhere and then there are infinite detours, but that is all part of the charm. Embrace it, and make sure you see the city as it was intended to be experienced—on foot and by boat.

Why it's a must: It's one of the most unique cities in the world, not only for its breathtaking architecture, but for its frailty. Visit now, while you still have the opportunity.

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The Chao Phraya River

Siam has always been tied to the Chao Phraya River in some way. The kingdom of Sukhothai was founded on the banks of the Yom River, a tributary of the Chao Phraya, while downstream, another former capital – Ayutthaya – was settled…then sacked. Riverside communities bear the marks of this close bond: wooden stilt houses, floating markets and flood levies among them. Without this twisty, meandering behemoth – also known as the River of Kings – Thailand would simply not be Thailand.

The economic zones of Bangkok are well protected from flooding from the Chao Phraya, which means that trade and leisure on the river continues unabated all year round – commuter ferries, longtail boats, hotel transfers, sand barges and river cruises are the primary sources of all this waterborne activity.

If you find yourself with spare time in Bangkok, whether you're a traveler or a resident, the following pursuits will give you a good idea of both the city's history and its current identity.

Things to do around the Chao Phraya:

Shop: True, you can do this anywhere in Bangkok, but the riverside offers up the prettiest shopping opportunities, with some fresh air thrown in for good measure. River City, at Sri Phaya Pier – two stops from the terminus at Saphan Taksin – has waterfront restaurants and upmarket tourist-centric stores selling pricey silk, gems, souvenirs, antiques and artwork.

Across from River City right next to the Millennium Hilton, is Talat Khlong San, a typical local marketplace that sells mainly clothes – all very inexpensive – with all the usual market fare on offer as well. You can hop on the Hilton's ferry to get there, or pay 3 THB to cross from River City on the commuter ferry. The pier is called Khlong San.

Asiatique is the newest riverside shopping development, with hundreds of covered market stalls (a smaller, classier version of Chatuchak market), chain restaurants, upmarket dining and plenty of space to sit and people-watch. It's a 15-minute free shuttle boat ride from Saphan Taksin BTS and pier, and worth the trip. Avoid trying to drive here – the traffic and parking situation is a nightmare.

The tourist boat – the express boat with the blue flag – is usually the best way to navigate the river. It's 40 baht per trip – more expensive than the local commuter boat, but faster and with fewer stops. Stand near the back of the boat when you want to disembark – the boat stops for approximately 10 seconds at each pier, guided by a whistle-toting attendant – and the driver has no sympathy for slow-pokes. The attendant speaks some English if you need assistance.

Koh Kret: This is an urban outpost for an ethnic Mon community, who make a living on the steady stream of local and foreign tourists that visit for an afternoon to eat and shop for handicrafts and pottery, which the island is known for. You can join an organized tour to get there, or take the peak-hour green flag express boat to Pak Kret, or during the day, the green flag boat to Nonthaburi, then take a taxi. The island is a square that you can cycle or walk around (there are no cars) – a relaxing day out if you like temples, pagodas, museums and checking out the everyday life of a small village in Bangkok.

Phra Pradaeng: If the idea of cycling around a green area appeals to you, the Phra Pradaeng area of Bangkok is worth a look. It's a segment of jungle bordered by a loop in the Chao Phraya, with canals, a floating market, villages, wildlife and bicycle rental – elevated cement walkways over the marshy ground allow you to cycle, walk, or even Segway. You might want to venture into the urbanized area of Phra Pradaeng, or you might be content to explore the park right near Tha Bangkrachao pier. You can get to this pier by ferry or longtail boat from Khlong Toey pier.

Thonburi khlong tour: The "other side" of Bangkok is still has legitimate river-based communities who live in much the same manner as they have been for centuries. Tour operators are clueing up to the attractiveness of this area by offering organized longtail boat trips there, but you can achieve the same by hiring a private longtail boat by the hour. You can probably negotiate 300-500 baht per hour, and you need someone with Thai language skills on board. The pay-off is a relaxing – and sometimes thrilling – cruise through canals, sneaking peeks into the stilt houses of locals and being loudly greeted and splashed at by local kids using the khlongs as their backyard pool.

Dine: The river is best visited in the late afternoon so you can enjoy the change of scenery as sunset fades into nighttime. During high season (November-January-ish), there's a fresh breeze, so it's much less humid than the city center. There are countless places you can dine along the riverfront. On the more expensive side are the five-star hotels near Saphan Taksin: the Mandarin Oriental, the Shangri-La, the Peninsula and the Millennium Hilton among them.

Mid-range restaurants – whether Thai or international – can be found at River City, Asiatique and Viva Aviv, or you can head upriver to the Anantara or to a romantic waterfront restaurant such as The Deck. Then there are a handful of affordable and chic/rustic watering holes such as Samsara Café and Meal – a quirky converted stilt-house with bar that serves Thai food and art and has several resident cats.

On the very local end of the spectrum, you can always dine in an authentic Thai manner – street-vendor style. Any pier will have a few street carts to provide take away meals so you can find a patch of riverside to temporarily claim as your own. One popular Isaan food restaurant is located at Pepsi Pier, a 3 THB ferry crossing from Saphan Taksin. During football season, a big outdoor screen goes up, but generally it's just you, the river and a small crowd of locals winding down after a long day. A meal here will cost you less than USD 5 and they have menus in English with pictures.

Cruises: A dinner cruise is usually an over-rated affair, but if you have limited time to enjoy the city, it ticks a lot of boxes at once. You've got views, Thai food, a sightseeing tour and the river all bundled into one, with minimal effort on your behalf. If you want to take a day cruise, you can go up river to Ayutthaya or downriver to the Royal Barges National Museum, or just to Khao San Road and the boutique shophouses of Phra Athit. A little web research before committing to any cruise is recommended, as there are lots of different options – some more expensive than others. Have fun!

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A Pretty Big Deal - Getting Married in India

If you’re ever lucky enough to be invited to a wedding in India, the first thing you have to know before going is that it’s a big deal. A very big deal indeed.

Lest you expect an Indian wedding to be simply two youngsters falling in love and exchanging vows with a few family and friends present and then slipping away for a bit of private time…well, that’s not how it works.

In fact, it’s quite the opposite – an Indian wedding is the very public bringing together of two youngsters AND their families. Indeed, you do not marry an individual in India, but rather a family, a clan, an entire interconnected, intertwined inter-dependent network. And as such, everyone is involved in the wedding at every stage, and celebrates with a vengeance over a period of several days.

In a country like India, which is a gargantuan melting pot of languages, cultures, religions, castes, customs and clans, there are, of course, many different types of weddings. For instance, a Christian wedding will follow a much more recognizably western format – church, long white dress, bridesmaids, followed by a reception.

But the minute you talk about a Hindu wedding, all bets are off. The ceremonies and festivities surrounding a wedding can last for a week, easily, and if you are invited, you need stamina, colorful clothes and the ability to eat and party non-stop.

And that right there is the essence of an Indian wedding – throwing a party that’s as raucous and happy and colorful and noisy and inclusive as possible; there is no room for quiet restraint or candle-lit romance.

Of course, there are moments of solemnity when the vows are exchanged, but even at the most intimate moment of a Hindu wedding, when the couple walks seven times around the sacred fire making very public vows, there is chatter and laughter, and coming and going, and the throwing of rose petals, and people taking photos, and - yet again - it is impossible to avoid using the word ‘fun’.

Last year, at the Delhi wedding of two youngsters who have both lived their lives overseas, the pundit was talking in Hindi, explaining the vows and the significance of them. He suddenly stopped, and switching into English asked the groom: “Have you any idea what I am talking about? Have you understood one single word of this?” Quick as a flash, the groom replied, “No, sorry, not a word” and the whole, huge crowd of guests burst out laughing. And the pundit switched to English.

That was a true Indian wedding scene – laughter at even the most solemn of moments.

To set the scene properly, it helps to understand the key elements of a Hindu wedding.

A few days before the event there will be a sangeet, or musical evening, the gravity of which depends on the degree of formality of the musical soirée. I have been to sangeets where renowned classical musicians entertain the guests, as well as sangeets that bordered on a disco. Traditionally there are humorous, jokey songs, often poking innocent fun at the groom-to-be. Increasingly, these songs have become more of a family and friends production, with all the sisters and female cousins and friends singing and dancing, and then the brothers and male cousins and friends responding. Usually set to Bollywood music and often telling the tale of how the couple met, these song and dance sequences are hugely popular with everyone laughing and cheering as aunties and uncles get into the act. Indians are seemingly born to dance, and what better occasion than a pre-wedding dance party?

Closer to the wedding day will be the mehendi ceremony, when the bride-to-be and her female family and friends have henna decorations applied. It’s of the most relaxed wedding rituals, usually taking place over lunch as the women sit chatting, hand and arms outstretched, whilst a small army of mehendi-walis (professional mehendi artists) paint intricate designs on their skin. There is always a bangle-wali at these events as well, and the women have huge fun selecting dozens of colored bangles to match their outfits.

On the big day, everyone is busy setting up, getting dressed and preparing for the upcoming rituals. If you are from the groom’s side, you will form part of the baraat, a ceremony which replicates the traditional act of the groom travelling to the bride’s house, where they would marry and return to his house to live. Nowadays, a baraat is a boisterous, noisy parade through the streets leading to the venue. Some baraats really do travel a bit of a distance, whilst others line up symbolically outside the wedding venue, where the groom’s side - family and friends – enter together. Often the groom participates in his baraat on a horse, accompanied by a fabulously loud brass band, with lights, fire crackers, dancing and yelling - the arrival of a baraat is one of the most amazing moments in an Indian wedding.

While all of this is going on, the bride’s family waits for the arriving baraat, greeting them with garlands and flower petals on the ground. Once everyone is together and the bride and groom are in the same place, the ceremony starts. Garlands are exchanged, vows are made, and as the couple walks round the scared fire, they are married.

If you are lucky enough to be invited to an Indian wedding, you are in for a visual and sensory treat. Colors, clothes, and jewelry like you’ve never seen before, accompanied by a boisterous overload of music, dancing, and food – oh, how one eats at an Indian wedding.

One major rule to keep in mind – you can never, ever be under-dressed, so wear your most wonderful clothes, knowing that no matter how magnificent your outfit, you will still be outdone!

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City Insider - Visiting a Food Market in Yangon, Myanmar

Browsing a local fresh market is one of the most captivating activities of visiting any foreign country. It’s at markets where the real lifeblood of a country flows, where commerce and leisure meet, and nowhere is this more true than in Asia. Markets are where local residents converse, do business, share meals, and spend time together with friends and family.

Slotted in between Thailand, India, and Bangladesh, and with major influences from both China and Great Britain, Myanmar contains an extremely diverse range of market ingredients and cuisine. Yangon, the capital and most important city in the country, is home to a number of sprawling food markets that not only offer fresh produce from miles around, but also a variety of different pre-cooked meals and treats.

The early morning is the best time to visit a market in Yangon, as the most vibrant trade happens before sunrise when restaurant, street food, and business owners all converge to get their daily supplies. After that, the next wave of traffic comes from people hunting for breakfast and those looking to purchase ingredients for their daily cooking needs.

Eating breakfast at a Yangon market is always a joy – Bangladeshi-style dosa pancakes served with flavorful curries, spiced peas wrapped in flatbread known as pe byouk, a selection of donuts and pastries, and freshly sliced tropical fruit are among the many options. But the most popular breakfast dish of all is known as mohinga, a bowl of rice noodles in fish curry topped with crispy fried fritters and garnished with lime and chili pepper. Few things are more enjoyable than sitting on a low stool while being served a piping hot bowl of mohinga in the midst of a bustling Yangon morning market.

Many people in Yangon are extremely friendly, especially in areas where they are not accustomed to seeing foreign visitors, like at local markets. While slowly wandering through most any market in Yangon, I was frequently stared at with a mix of curiosity and friendly nosiness, and even invited to sit down to drink cups of tea and eat snacks on many occasions. The hospitality from strangers was inspiring.

In order to cater to a real mixture of different cultures and cuisines, there’s a colorful mishmash of produce in Yangon’s markets. Eggplant, potatoes, cauliflower, bitter melon, turnips, and beans mostly cater to the Indian inspired dishes, while green leafy veggies, carrots, cabbage, and mushrooms are generally more prevalent in Chinese dishes. Other ingredients like pickled tea leaves, nuts, chickpeas, fruits, and herbs are key components in traditional Burmese favorites.

Fish, red meat, and poultry are all common throughout markets in Yangon. Fish is most commonly used to make the broth for mohinga and in famous Burmese curries but can also be found marinated and grilled. Beef, goat, and chicken are cooked in rice biryani, simmered in curry, boiled in soups, or stir fried.

Banana, guava, dragon fruit, durian, jackfruit, mango, watermelon, and papaya are all widely grown in Myanmar. Something known as a sweet cucumber – a green and yellow gourd-looking fruit – is popular as a refreshing beverage and sweet dessert.

Having the chance to browse through a local market presents an unparalleled glimpse into the mix of cultures, the diversity of ingredients used in food preparation, and the way of life in Yangon. It’s a perfect eye opening introduction to the stimulating culture of local Myanmar.

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City Insider - A peek behind the curtain of the Golden Triangle

The lush, mountainous chunk of land where Thailand, Laos Myanmar and Vietnam meet has long been one of Southeast Asia’s most noteworthy areas for a variety of reasons. There are the inevitable issues with cross-border migration and smuggling, but the “Wild West” image that some like to play up doesn’t really reflect the reality of this beautiful area.

Too many travel operators in Northern Thailand tack a night in Chiang Rai city onto a slapdash tour of the entire region. Visitors whisk in, see the statue of King Mengrai and drive past the brand-new clock tower before heading out to the ‘lawless’ frontier of the Golden Triangle. It’s too bad because there are some spectacular side trips in this laid-back regional hub – hill-tribe treks and elephant rides of course, but there are also a few surprises.

The best way to visit Chiang Rai is to snub the package tours and take a VIP bus from Rose-of-the-North Chiang Mai. You’ll arrive near the Night Bazaar, where there are plenty of Chiang Rai hotels. If you can stomach driving in Thailand, you may want to rent a car to explore the countryside on your own. Otherwise, hire a car and driver.

Chiang Rai is a slow-burning travel destination, and I recommend giving it two or three days to impress you. If the first 24 hours seem less than promising, you can always board a tour bus for the Golden Triangle. Just don’t be surprised if the House of Opium is about as lawless as the International House of Pancakes.

Here are few Chiang-Rai activities that are well worth looking into:

Drink coffee where it’s grown

Coffee is grown across all of Northern Thailand, but Chiang Rai is the caffeinated heavyweight. The bigger resorts and hotels in Chiang Rai each have their own trendy coffee shops, and many serve some of the freshest coffee you’ll find in Thailand. If simply brooding over a cup of java knowing it was grown locally isn’t enough, then consider signing up for a plantation tour at local heavyweight Doi Chaang or some of the smaller plantations in the surrounding hills.

Tour the White Temple

Artist Chalermchai Kositpipat (who also built the clock tower mentioned above) likes you to remember that in his humble youth he was a movie billboard painter. His temple is chocked full of emotive scenes vaguely reminiscent of What Dreams May Come, that last Pirates of the Caribbean movie and other flicks you forgot you’d ever seen.

Refreshingly free of gold-painted chedis and glass ‘jewels’, Wat Rong Khun is built from bleached-white stucco with a few well-placed mirrors to add extra layers of brilliance. The entire complex is filled with garish, sparkling white characters – sword-wielding giants, ephemeral nymphs and demonic, Marlboro-puffing gargoyles.  The most striking scene is a bridge across a chasm symbolizing Buddhist hell, complete with writhing hands grasping for light. One hand is holding an eye; another’s proudly flying the middle finger; still others are hoisting jars and begging for alms. The entire scene is as gritty and disturbing as it intends to be.

The political and pop-culture critiques are probably not as scathing or scandalous as they could be (a demon’s eyes reflect the faces Osama Bin Laden and George Bush), but hey, where else are you going to see a temple mural featuring Batman and Spiderman? Regardless of your final take on the White Temple, there’s no denying its originality.

Watch the sunrise at Phu Chi Fa

The logistics of this are a little tricky, but the view will redefine your Northern Thai experience. Phu Chi Fa is an abrupt 1,600-meter cliff overhanging the Lao border. Sunrises are spectacular, and if you arrive early enough you’ll be the first person in Thailand to see that day’s light break the eastern horizon. For the sun, the first order of business is dissolving the sea of fog that clings to valley below. It’s a well-orchestrated event that too many visitors are completely unaware of.

I’m not going to pretend like it doesn’t take two and a half hours to drive here from Chiang Rai city proper. If rising that early sounds daunting, consider ditching the accommodation in Chiang Rai for one night and staying in Thoeng, a small town not far from the cliff.

Ditch the highway

Long-tail boats dock at the pier just north of Chiang Rai city. They’ll arrange to take you back into Chiang Mai province, dropping you off a few hours later in the river town of Thaton. Prices vary, but a charter boat won’t set you back much more per person than a bus ticket, especially if you’re traveling with a small group. The trade-off affords relative seclusion, a scenic angle on Chiang Rai’s backcountry and the chance to stop by hill-tribe villages along the way.

Back in Thaton, daily buses depart for Chiang Mai city (170kms). Guesthouses and river resorts in Thaton are on hand if your boat arrives too late in the evening.

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City Insider - India’s Republic Day Celebration

If you are anywhere near New Delhi in late January, then you have a treat in store, for on 26th January India celebrates its Republic Day. In fact, the holiday is celebrated all over the country, in every town, with flag hoisting, parades, military reviews, cultural programs and more, but the Parade To Beat All Parades takes place in New Delhi. This annual extravaganza really is one of the more spectacular events of the year and is a set piece absolutely not to be missed.

The parade takes place along Rajpath, a long, wide avenue that leads from the Presidential Palace, Rashtrapati Bhavan, to India Gate, the country’s iconic Arc de Triomphe-like war memorial.

Tiered seating, for which you need a (very modestly priced) ticket, is set up on both sides of the broad avenue, and though security is strict the mood is one of friendliness. That being said, certain things – like cameras – are banned. Make sure to read the instructions on your ticket carefully for a list of banned items, as there is nowhere to deposit cameras, phones, food, drink and anything else you might have felt like bringing along.

The parade opens with a dramatic Air Force fly-by, during which the lead plane showers flower petals on the President and his guests, while the stoic, horse-mounted President’s Body Guard trots below, pennants a-fluttering.

Air Force acrobatics overhead are matched on the ground by a display of the latest military hardware – giant ballistic missile launchers, tanks and other machines of war – and then precision marching by some of the country’s finest regiments, all turned out in their brightest ceremonial finery. However little one may like the idea of warfare or pageants trumpeting military might, I defy anyone to avoid getting caught up in the musical and visual splendor of the event. One highlight is when unique Bikaner Camel Corps strut past, their over-the-top mirror-work harnesses twinkling in the winter sun, amid the applause and cheers of the crowds.

After this come cultural performances from skilled artists representing selected states, with all manner of dancing and drumming, as well as floats representing regional achievements.

Huge cheers are always reserved for a small group of children who each year receive bravery awards from the President. As each child goes past, his or her story of bravery is told - rescuing a sibling from a raging river, saving a friend from being attacked by a leopard, fighting off robbers, etc. Some of the children are very, very young, and you wonder how on earth they found such courage. Until very recently the children rode down Rajpath on elephants, but safety concerns now has them riding in jeeps – safer but far less exciting.

The parade usually closes with an absolutely amazing display of trick motorbike riding by the Army’s dispatch riders. Zooming backwards down Rajpath reading a newspaper, rolling steadily along with 5 or 6 others in a human pyramid above the driver – the kind of clever, show-offy stuff that’s always a guaranteed crowd favorite.

By lunchtime, the parade is over, with the crowds dispersing in a cheerful, upbeat mood, while the final Air Force fly-by showers everyone with confetti in the national colors – green, orange and white.

To mark the end of Republic Day celebrations, a poignant ceremony called Beating Retreat takes place on the evening of the 29th in front of Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Presidential Palace. Dating back to the 1500’s the ceremony was used to recall military units patrolling nearby back to base, and is today performed in India to the accompaniment of regimental bands before an invited audience of diplomats, politicians and VIPs – sorry, no public viewing.

But before you give up in despair, take note that regular folks can observe the dress rehearsal of Beating Retreat that takes place the day before, on 28th January – at Rs50 per ticket, it’s one of the city’s best bargains. The only thing you don’t get to see at the rehearsal is the President himself. His car comes, though, to practice timing, so you’re not completely short-changed.

Don’t forget to stay for a spectacular display from the massed pipe and drum regiments, who every year play the moving Christian hymn “Abide with me,” which was a favorite of Mahatma Gandhi.

As sunset ends, and darkness falls, the short, 45 minute ceremony comes to an elegant conclusion. Finally, the entire complex of the Secretariat Buildings and Rashtrapati Bhavan is suddenly illuminated in a breathtaking burst of thousands of lights. There is a collective gasp from the crowds, so pretty is the effect.

However many times one has seen this, it is always an exciting, dramatic ending for an exciting and dramatic day.

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The Continental Saigon Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City

The first hotel we want to look at is the Continental Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City. Formerly known as Saigon, Vietnam’s largest city boasts a population of over 7 million people and what sometimes feels like as many motorbikes. As the financial hub of the country, HCMC has been booming over the last decade.

But while the city’s skyline is rapidly changing, you can still find remnants of the French colonial era, especially in historic District 1 (which is still called Saigon today). The Continental Hotel is a standout though, and one of the most notable buildings from the time of French rule. It was built in 1880 as a place where French nationals could recuperate in familiar surroundings after a long trip to a strange and exotic country. There are plenty of other historic buildings in the area that hearken back to colonial times as well, including the beautiful Saigon Opera House (aka HCMC Municipal Theater), which was built in 1897. Believe it or not, when it was built, it was criticized for being entirely too ornate! A few minutes’ walk from the Continental is the Notre Dame Cathedral and the old post office, which was designed by Gustave Eiffel.

But what makes the Continental the standout property in this area is the sheer number of historical events and notable folks that it has hosted throughout the years.

While there were certainly bigger hotels with fancier facades, the Continental became known as a place where notable names gathered, worked and slept soon after it opened. The most well-known guest was the British writer Graham Greene, who lived here for almost two years. It was here that he wrote The Quiet American, and was so enamored with his temporary home that it features prominently in his landmark novel. If you are on a literary pilgrimage you can even request to stay in the Graham Greene suite.

Other notable guests include the Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore (winner of the 1913 Nobel Prize for literature) and legendary U.S. reporter Walter Cronkite, who in 1968 used the hotel as his base as he reported on the Vietnam War after the shock of the Tet Offensive. During the war Newsweek and Time kept offices here as well, ensuring a steady flow of journalists at the hotel bar, which did a lot to maintain its reputation as a hub of social and political life. Indeed, sitting in the bar today it’s not hard to imagine it during the height of the war, hazy with smoke and filled with reporters, soldiers, spies and grizzled veterans of all types. Thankfully, it’s a bit more stress-free these days.

Post-war years saw the Malaysian Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamed and Jacques Chirac (then Mayor of Paris) stay here as well.

In the ensuing decades the Continental Hotel saw its fortunes wax and wane. While it began as the very definition of luxury it gradually fell into decline over the war years and then closed down after the fall of Saigon in 1975. It was not until the late 80's, when the country was opening up again after a period of economic isolation, that the hotel was once again open for business.

The Continental has recently undergone renovations, but its old-world charm has been retained with its unusually oversized rooms, wood paneled walls and fixtures that you just don't see in today’s hotels. And while it may no longer be the go-to place for politicians and journalists to meet, gossip and share ideas, it still remains as an iconic landmark in Ho Chi Minh City and an important part of the city’s history.

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