You can smell it a mile off. One of the most distinctive traits of that giant Indonesian carnivore, the Komodo dragon, is its pungent, meaty aroma.
Formidable
Up to three meters long, the malodorous monster can weigh over 100 kilograms, making it the world’s heaviest lizard. Beady-eyed, it has a long, flat head with a rounded snout, rough skin and bowed muscle-bound legs that enable it to run at 20 kilometers per hour.
Nobody could call the Komodo dragon good-looking. But, from the tip of its forked yellow tongue to the end of its massive tail, the dragon is extraordinary – one of the most striking animals you will see anywhere and up there with any of Africa’s 'big five' (that is, lions, African elephants, Cape buffalos, leopards and rhinos).
Moonscape moves
The dragon’s lair is Komodo National Park, a barren and blistering Indonesian archipelago that hosts some 2,500 members of the formidable species. With the help of the wind, a Komodo dragon can scent a whiff of fresh blood as far as eight kilometers away, then set off in hot pursuit. Otherwise, counting on camouflage and patience, it scours the landscape for passing prey. When a victim comes into view, the Komodo dragon pounces. Using its stocky legs, claws, and serrated, shark-like teeth, the dragon then consumes its prey.
Poison payload
Until recently, scientists believed that the dragon’s saliva was teeming with toxic bacteria. New research shows that a dragon actually oozes venom into the wounds, which are already big enough to cause its victims' death through blood loss.
Hit-list
Capable of consuming over half its weight in a single meal, a Komodo dragon can take down and terminate creatures that match it in bulk. Its diet includes both deer and water buffalo. The dragon has even been known to kill people. In one case, a Swiss tourist who sat down alone was apparently attacked and eaten by a Komodo dragon.
Hauntingly, about all that remained of the victim was his camera. The incident happened way back in 1974. But cases have happened this century, too.
Fortress mentality
In their efforts to keep Komodo dragons at bay, Indonesians unlucky enough to inhabit the Jurassic Park build their homes on stilts and keep their goats on raised planks. In the evening, when the dragons get twitchy, the villagers rarely venture beyond the glow of outdoor lanterns. Nor do they wear red. The colour could be mistaken for blood and catch a dragon’s eye, it’s believed.
In another defensive measure, the villagers ensure that the dinosaur-like beasts have tons of natural prey to pursue. That means leaving them the Timor pigs that are a dragon diet staple, and generally skipping hunting deer and water buffalo.
Pussycat possibility
So, in theory, the reeking reptiles you meet at Komodo should be well-fed and placid. Still, just in case a dragon turns even uglier than it looks, park guides carry sticks.
Getting there: Komodo can be reached by traditional local sailing boat from Sape Harbour on Sumbawa Island or from Labuan Bajo at the tip of Flores Island. Scheduled flights from Denpasar, Bali, are another option. Bear in mind that you need a permit from Komodo National Park office. A three-day pass costs US$15.
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